How to Grow Figs in the US
Container growing, overwintering in cold zones, two crops a year, and variety picks by USDA zone
Figs are one of the most rewarding and forgiving fruit trees for the home garden. They tolerate poor soil, drought and a fair amount of neglect, and a well-placed tree crops for decades. They are also the standout choice for containers, since restricting the roots actually pushes the plant to fruit, which makes them possible on a patio or balcony anywhere in the country.
Figs are remarkably adaptable. They are frost-hardy once fully dormant, taking hard winter cold in the South, yet they ripen best with a long, hot summer. In cold zones the trick is to grow in a pot you can shelter, or to choose a cold-hardy variety that resprouts and fruits on new wood. Use the selector below to match a method and variety to your USDA zone, then read on for the full how-to.
Fig USDA zone suitability selector
Climate and Position
Figs crop best in a warm, sheltered, sunny spot with at least six to eight hours of direct sun. Heat ripens the fruit and builds sugar, so a south-facing wall or fence is ideal, especially in cooler zones where the reflected warmth extends the season. Avoid deep shade and frost pockets. Established figs are frost-hardy when fully dormant, but young trees, potted figs and the fall crop are frost-sensitive, so in cold zones a pot you can move under cover is the safest approach.
Planting
In the ground: plant bare-root or container figs in early spring once hard frost has passed (fall through spring in frost-free zones). Dig a hole twice the width of the rootball, set the tree at the depth it grew at, backfill with the native soil and water in well. Figs are not fussy about soil as long as it drains freely. Soggy ground is the one thing they will not tolerate. Mulch the root zone, keeping mulch off the trunk.
In pots: use a pot at least 20 inches wide and deep with good drainage, and a quality free-draining potting mix. Full sun is essential. Root restriction keeps the tree compact and brings on fruiting, and it lets cold-zone gardeners move the tree to a garage or basement for winter. Repot or root-prune every two to three years while dormant.
Watering and Feeding
In the ground, water figs deeply but infrequently to push roots down. Once established they are very drought-tolerant, though even watering near harvest helps prevent fruit splitting. Go easy on nitrogen. Too much gives you a big leafy tree with little fruit. Fertilize in spring with a balanced or low-nitrogen product and add potassium (such as sulfate of potash) to support fruiting and ripening.
Potted figs are hungrier and thirstier because they cannot reach for water and nutrients. Water whenever the top inch or two of mix dries out, often daily in summer heat, and fertilize monthly with a liquid feed from spring through fall.
Pruning
Prune while the tree is dormant. Aim for an open vase shape that lets light and air into the canopy, which improves ripening and reduces disease. Figs fruit in two places: the breba crop forms on last year's wood, and the larger main crop forms on the current season's new growth. If you want the early breba crop, do not over-prune, because heavy dormant pruning removes the wood that carries it. Remove dead, crossing and inward branches, tip-prune to encourage new fruiting wood, and cut back hard only if a tree has outgrown its space. In cold zones where top growth dies back, the tree fruits on new wood regardless.
Harvest and Storage
Figs do not ripen further once picked, so harvest only when fully ripe. A ripe fig is soft to the touch, droops with a bending neck, and often shows a drop of nectar at the eye. Pick gently, ideally with a snip of stem, and handle carefully because ripe figs bruise easily. In warm zones you may get two crops: an early summer breba crop and a heavier late summer to fall main crop.
Fresh figs keep only a couple of days. Do not refrigerate them for long, as the cold dulls the flavor and texture. For longer storage, freeze them whole or dry them, both of which figs do beautifully.
Pests and Problems
- Birds: birds will strip ripe figs fast. Netting the tree, or netting individual branches on a large tree, is the only reliable fix. A closed-eye variety like Celeste also resists spoilage.
- Fig rust: brown spots and premature leaf drop in humid regions. Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves, and keep the canopy open for airflow. Trees usually recover the next season.
- Scale: sap-sucking insects on stems and leaves. Wipe off light infestations or treat with horticultural oil.
- Root-knot nematode: stunts trees in sandy Southern soils. Build up organic matter, mulch well, and grow in pots in problem ground.
- Fruit splitting and souring: heavy rain or uneven watering near harvest splits ripening fruit, and humidity can sour open-eye figs. Even watering, good drainage and a closed-eye variety all help.
Best Fig Varieties for the US
| Variety | Skin & flesh | Best zone | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Celeste | Light brown to purple skin, amber flesh | Zones 7 to 9 | Closed eye resists spoilage in humidity, very sweet, cold-hardy. A Southern favorite. |
| Brown Turkey | Brown skin, amber flesh | Zones 7 to 10 | Widely adapted, reliable and forgiving. One of the more cold-hardy choices. |
| Chicago Hardy | Purple-brown skin, pink flesh | Zones 6 to 10 | The cold-hardiest common fig. Resprouts from roots and fruits on new wood after a hard winter. |
| LSU Purple | Glossy dark purple skin, red flesh | Zones 8 to 10 | Productive and disease-tolerant, bred for the humid South. Can crop multiple times. |
| Black Mission | Deep purple-black skin, pink flesh | Zones 8 to 10 | Rich and sweet, excellent fresh or dried. Thrives in the warm, dry West. |
| Kadota | Green-yellow skin, amber flesh | Zones 8 to 10 | Classic green fig, great for preserving and drying. Loves heat. |
Region and Season Note
Plant figs in early spring once hard frost has passed, or fall through spring in frost-free zones 9 and 10. Warm zones (8 and up) ripen fruit superbly and often carry two crops. In zone 7 and colder, choose a cold-hardy variety and either grow in a movable pot or wrap in-ground trees for winter, focusing on the main crop on new wood.
Track your fig growing
Add figs to your garden in the Planting Season app and get reminders for pruning, feeding and harvest time, tuned to your zone.
Open the App →Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant fig trees?
Plant bare-root or container figs in early spring after hard frost has passed. In frost-free zones 9 and 10 you can plant fall through spring. Container figs can be planted any time but establish best in spring.
Can I grow figs in pots?
Yes, figs are one of the best fruit trees for containers. Restricting the roots increases fruiting and keeps the tree small. Use a pot at least 20 inches wide and deep, a free-draining mix, water regularly and fertilize monthly through the growing season. Pots also let cold-zone gardeners move the tree to a garage or basement for winter.
Do fig trees need a pollinator?
No. Common fig varieties such as Celeste, Brown Turkey and Chicago Hardy are self-fertile and set fruit on their own. They do not need a caprifig, a fig wasp, or a second tree.
How do I grow figs in a cold climate (zone 6 or colder)?
Grow figs in a large pot and overwinter them dormant in an unheated garage, basement or shed, or wrap an in-ground tree heavily for winter. Cold-hardy varieties such as Chicago Hardy and Brown Turkey can resprout from the roots even if top growth dies back, and still fruit on new wood the same season.
Why is my fig tree not producing fruit?
The most common cause is too much nitrogen, which drives leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer near the tree, feed with a low-nitrogen potassium-rich fertilizer, and give it full sun. Young and heavily pruned trees also fruit poorly until they settle.
Do figs crop twice a year?
In warm zones many varieties carry two crops. The breba crop forms in early summer on last year's wood, and the main crop forms in late summer to fall on the current season's growth. In cold zones, where top growth often dies back, you usually get only the main crop on new wood.
How long until a fig tree fruits?
A fig planted from a container or bare-root stock usually fruits in 1 to 2 years, with full production by 3 to 5 years. Container-grown figs often fruit in their first season because the restricted roots push the plant to fruit.
Related Guides
See also: Fig in the Plant Library →