How to Grow Oranges in the US
Updated September 2026
Feeding schedule, citrus pests, and variety picks for every region
Orange trees are a long-term garden investment that pay off for decades. A mature tree produces hundreds of fruit per year with surprisingly little effort. Like all citrus, oranges need regular feeding and a sunny spot with good drainage. Get those two things right and the tree does most of the work.
This guide covers the best orange varieties for home gardens, feeding and pest management, and regional planting times. For more on citrus pests, also see our organic pest management guide, and if winters are too cold for oranges where you live, our guide to growing citrus in pots.
When to Plant in Your Region
Oranges are a subtropical crop, so where you garden decides whether they go in the ground or in a pot. They grow outdoors in Central and South Florida, Southern California, Northern California and the Central Valley, the low desert of the Desert Southwest and the Hawaiian lowlands. In North Florida and the Gulf South they are risky: plant after the last frost in your warmest spot, cover young trees on freeze nights, and consider satsuma, the safer choice. In Texas, oranges grow outdoors only in the Rio Grande Valley. Everywhere else, from the Mid-South and the Southern Plains to the Pacific Northwest, the Mid-Atlantic, the Northeast and New England, the Midwest, the Upper Midwest and Northern Plains and the Mountain West, winters are too cold for citrus outdoors, so grow a dwarf tree in a container and bring it inside for winter. In Alaska keep the container indoors under grow lights. Choose your region below for local planting months.
Washington Navel
The classic eating orange. Seedless, easy to peel, sweet, and juicy. Fruit ripen in winter and spring. Bears well in all but the most tropical climates.
Valencia
The juicing orange. Produces fruit in summer when navels are out of season. Thinner skin, more seeds, and incredibly juicy. Excellent for households that juice regularly. Reliable and productive.
Blood Orange
Crimson-fleshed orange with a distinctive berry-like flavor. Needs cool winter nights to develop its red color. Best where winter nights are cool, as in Southern California and the Central Valley. In the warm Hawaiian lowlands the flesh shows little red color.
Cara Cara
Navel-type orange with pink-red flesh and a sweet, low-acid flavor. Beautiful color, seedless, and excellent flavor. Ripens in winter.
Dwarf Orange
Grafted onto dwarfing rootstock to stay under about 6 feet. Full-sized fruit on a compact tree. Perfect for pots, small gardens, and patios. Available in Navel, Valencia, and Blood Orange varieties.
Feeding and Care
Feed oranges three times a year with a citrus-specific fertilizer: in early spring, late spring and midsummer. See our fertilizing guide for more on choosing and using fertilizer.
Additional care tips specific to oranges:
- Oranges are slightly more cold-hardy than lemons. Washington Navel tolerates light frosts once established.
- Fruit can stay on the tree for weeks after ripening without losing quality. This makes oranges a "pick as you need" crop.
- Thin heavy crops by removing some fruit in spring. This prevents branch breakage and improves fruit size.
- Water deeply and infrequently. Oranges have deep root systems and prefer a good soak twice a week over daily light watering.
Citrus Pests
Oranges suffer from the same pests as other citrus trees. The main ones are:
- Citrus leafminer: Silvery trails in new leaves. Spray new growth with horticultural oil.
- Scale: Brown or white bumps on stems and leaves. Spray with horticultural oil.
- Asian citrus psyllid: A tiny sap-sucking insect that spreads huanglongbing (HLB), or citrus greening, the most serious citrus disease in the US. There is no cure once a tree is infected. Buy only certified, disease-free trees, do not move citrus plants or cuttings across state or quarantine lines, and report suspected HLB to your local agricultural extension office.
For detailed pest management instructions, see our organic pest management guide.
Common Problems
Dry or pithy fruit
Oranges left on the tree too long past ripeness become dry inside. Valencia oranges in particular need to be picked on time. Taste-test fruit regularly and harvest the whole crop once flavor peaks.
Alternating crops
Some orange trees produce a heavy crop one year and almost nothing the next. Thinning heavy crops in spring and consistent feeding help even out production over the years.
Splitting fruit
Fruit cracks open after rain following a dry period. Consistent watering prevents this. Mulch well and water deeply during dry spells, especially as fruit approaches ripeness.
Track Your Orange Tree
Add oranges to your garden in the Planting Season app and get reminders for feeding, pest checks, and harvest time.
Open the App →Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant an orange tree in the US?
Plant container-grown orange trees in spring or fall. Spring planting gives the tree the best chance to establish before winter. Avoid planting in summer heat or winter cold. In South Florida the cooler, drier months from October to March suit planting best, and in the low desert plant in February, March or October. Use the calendar above for your region.
How long do orange trees take to produce fruit?
Grafted orange trees typically produce their first fruit in 2 to 3 years after planting. Full production takes 4 to 6 years. Dwarf varieties on dwarfing rootstock often fruit sooner.
What is the difference between Navel and Valencia oranges?
Navel oranges ripen in winter and spring, are seedless, and are best for eating fresh. Valencia oranges ripen in summer, have some seeds, and are ideal for juicing. Growing both gives you oranges for most of the year.
Can I grow oranges in pots?
Oranges grow well in large pots (at least 20 inches wide) when grafted on dwarfing rootstock. Use premium potting mix, feed three times a year, and water when the top inch or two of mix dries out.
See also: Oranges in the Plant Library
