How to grow Orange Tree
Updated October 2026
Sweet oranges are the classic Florida backyard citrus, and with early, midseason and late varieties you can pick fruit from November to July. They need warm, nearly frost-free winters, so outside Florida they grow outdoors only in the Rio Grande Valley, Arizona, California and Hawaii. Citrus greening has changed how oranges are bought and moved, so buy certified trees locally.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Oranges in the US
Where to plant
Plant oranges in full sun, at least 15 feet from other trees, and away from buildings, septic tanks and drain fields. Citrus tolerate light shade but crop much better in full sun, and they will not tolerate waterlogged soil.
Freezes are the limit. Where they come every few years, plant the hardiest types and avoid late-season varieties, whose fruit may be frozen before it ripens. A long freeze does more damage than a brief, colder dip.
- Central and South Florida: the heart of US orange growing. Plant container trees at any time; in South Florida, the cooler, drier months let roots settle before the summer rains.
- North Florida and the Gulf South: risky. Plant after the last frost in your warmest spot and cover young trees on freeze nights. Satsuma is the safer citrus.
- Texas: outdoors only in the Rio Grande Valley; elsewhere grow a dwarf tree in a container.
- The Desert Southwest: plant in late winter or October to miss the summer heat, wrap or paint the trunk against sunburn, and water deeply.
- Southern and Northern California: plant in spring after frost or in October. Inland trees need more water than coastal ones.
- Hawaii: grows well in the lowlands; water through the dry season.
- Colder regions: grow a dwarf tree in a container and bring it inside for winter.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Hamlin | Early, October to January; few seeds; the usual first choice in Florida |
| Navel | Early, October to January; seedless eating oranges; light bearers in Florida |
| Pineapple | Midseason, December to February; seedy, and prone to alternate bearing and fruit drop |
| Midsweet | Midseason, January to March |
| Valencia | Late, March to June; the classic juice orange; few seeds |
UF/IFAS suggests planting one early, one midseason and one late variety if you have room, for fresh fruit from early November to July. Buy a certified tree from a licensed nursery in your own state.
How to plant
- Plant a container-grown tree at the same soil level as in its pot. Remove some potting mix from the outside of the root ball so the roots grow out into the surrounding soil.
- Build a watering basin that holds 5 to 10 gallons. Fill it twice a week for the first month, then water whenever new growth wilts in the afternoon.
- Start feeding three weeks after planting or when new growth begins.
- Keep grass, weeds and mulch away from the trunk to prevent foot rot.
Watering and feeding
Young trees use water quickly; water them often for the first year. Established trees need watering in dry spells, and in hot, dry climates about 1 to 2 inches a week through the growing season, spread over the whole root area. Never keep the soil saturated.
In Florida, feed young trees about every six weeks from February to October with a balanced citrus fertilizer with micronutrients, starting with about half a cup and increasing through the season. From the second year, fewer, larger feeds are enough. Spread fertilizer beyond the drip line, about as many feet out as the tree is years old, and never against the trunk.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove suckers from below the graft.
- Mature trees need no regular pruning; heavy pruning cuts the crop. Remove dead wood, water sprouts and branches that crowd buildings.
- On alkaline soils, iron deficiency is corrected with chelated iron, and an annual manganese and zinc spray can help.
- Before a freeze, water the soil a few days ahead, pull back mulch, and cover young trees to the ground.
- Check new shoots for Asian citrus psyllid and report suspected citrus greening to your state department of agriculture or extension office.
Harvesting
Oranges ripen slowly and hold on the tree for weeks to months, so taste to decide when to pick; color is not a reliable guide, as fruit can stay green-tinged in warm climates. Clip or twist the fruit off. Picked fruit keeps 2 to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with the area under the canopy clear of grass and weeds.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid near the drip line as mulch, kept away from the trunk; it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to orange tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds compete with citrus roots and, at the trunk, can promote foot rot.
Pests and diseases
Citrus greening, spread by the Asian citrus psyllid, is the serious threat. UF/IFAS notes that a few backyard trees often need no spraying for other pests, which are usually held in check by natural enemies.
Pests to watch for
- Asian citrus psyllid Tiny mottled brown insects feeding head down on new shoots; nymphs leave white, waxy strands. They spread citrus greening.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in young leaves, which curl and distort.
- Scale Small bumps on twigs and leaves with sticky honeydew and black sooty mold.
Diseases to watch for
- Citrus greening (HLB) Blotchy, uneven yellowing of leaves and small, lopsided, poorly colored fruit. There is no cure.
- Citrus canker Raised, corky lesions with yellow halos on leaves, twigs and fruit; report suspected cases.
- Melanose Small, raised, rough brown specks on fruit and leaves, spread from dead twigs.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on young fruit and leaves.
Common questions
Which orange tree should I plant in Florida?
If you have room for one, UF/IFAS suggests an early variety such as Hamlin or a navel. With room for more, add a midseason Pineapple or Midsweet and a late Valencia for fruit from November to July.
What is citrus greening?
Citrus greening, or huanglongbing (HLB), is a bacterial disease spread by the Asian citrus psyllid. It causes blotchy yellow leaves and small, lopsided fruit and eventually kills the tree. USDA reports it throughout Florida and Georgia and in parts of Alabama, California, Louisiana, South Carolina and Texas.
Can I take homegrown oranges or a tree out of state?
Not from a quarantine area. USDA asks people not to mail or carry homegrown citrus fruit or plants out of areas quarantined for citrus greening. Buy only certified trees.
Why are my ripe oranges still green?
In warm climates, oranges can be sweet while the skin is still partly green, because cool nights are what turn the peel orange. Taste one to check.
How often should I fertilize an orange tree?
In Florida, young trees get small feeds about every six weeks from February to October. Established trees get three or four larger feeds a year, spread under and beyond the canopy.
Should I mulch my orange tree?
UF/IFAS does not recommend mulch around citrus in Florida. If you use it, keep it at least a foot from the trunk, and pull it back before a freeze.
Sources we checked: UF/IFAS EDIS: Citrus Culture in the Home Landscape (HS132); UF/IFAS Extension Levy County: Citrus for North Florida; USDA APHIS: Citrus Greening and Asian Citrus Psyllid; UF/IFAS EDIS: Asian citrus psyllid, Diaphorina citri (IN160); Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, Bexar County: Growing Your Own Citrus.
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