How to grow Pecan
Updated October 2026
Pecan is a native American nut tree that grows into a huge, long-lived shade tree. It needs a long, hot summer to fill its nuts, deep well-drained soil, plenty of room, and at least two varieties that shed pollen at different times. For a home yard, choose a variety resistant to pecan scab, as big trees are hard to spray.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Pecan
Where to plant
Pecans need deep, well-drained soil, ideally 3 to 4 feet deep, with a moderate ability to hold water. They are native to river valleys and need plenty of water, doing best on sandy loams but also growing on well-drained clay loams. Avoid frost pockets; a gentle slope or higher ground reduces frost damage and helps leaves dry after rain, which cuts disease.
Plan for a very large tree. In a landscape, space pecans 60 to 80 feet apart so they do not crowd each other or the house.
- The Gulf South, Texas, North Florida, the Southern Plains and the Mid-South: the heart of US pecan growing. Plant bare-root trees in winter.
- The Mid-Atlantic: on the northern fringe of good pecan country; choose early-ripening, cold-hardy varieties.
- The Midwest: choose northern varieties from both pollination groups, such as 'Major' with 'Posey', which fill their nuts in a shorter season. In the colder north, grow hazelnuts instead.
- Southern and Northern California and the Desert Southwest: plant in inland valleys with long, hot summers rather than on the coast.
- Central and South Florida, Hawaii, the Northeast, Mountain West and Alaska: winters are too mild or summers too short and cool for pecans to crop.
Choosing a variety
Pecans come in two pollination groups. Type I trees shed pollen before their own female flowers are ready; Type II trees do the opposite. Plant at least one of each, and ideally three varieties, within about 150 feet of each other.
For homes where trees cannot be sprayed, NC State Extension recommends scab-resistant varieties such as 'Amling' (Type I) and 'Elliott', 'Lakota' and 'Kanza' (Type II). 'Kanza' and 'Gloria Grande' are noted for cold hardiness, while older 'Stuart' and 'Pawnee' are less resistant to scab.
How to plant
- Plant bare-root trees 4 to 6 feet tall in late fall or early winter. Pecans have a long taproot, so dig a hole deep and wide enough that roots do not curl.
- Set the graft union at least 2 inches above the settled soil. Trees planted too deep do not form strong surface roots.
- Backfill with native soil only; add no fertilizer to the hole, and wait until the soil has settled before feeding.
- Water well, then cut back the top by about a third to encourage well-spaced branches and balance the reduced root system. Paint the lower trunk with white latex paint to protect the bark.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil moist through the first year; it is essential for survival. Mature pecans have a high water need, and drought while nuts are filling in late summer leads to poorly filled nuts and dropped crops. On light, sandy soils, irrigation is strongly encouraged.
Keep grass and weeds out of a circle around young trees. Feed according to soil and leaf tests. Pecans often need zinc; a zinc sulfate spray in spring corrects deficiency, which shows as small, crinkled leaves.
Pruning and care through the year
- Train young trees to a single strong central leader with well-spaced side branches.
- Avoid crowding and keep the canopy open to sunlight and air, which reduces pecan scab.
- Gather fallen shucks and damaged nuts, which helps reduce pecan weevil.
Harvesting
Pecans are ready when the shucks split open and the nuts start to drop, usually in October and November. Shake small limbs with a pole or spread sheets under the tree and gather nuts promptly. Dry them in a cool, airy place before storing; shelled kernels keep best in the refrigerator or freezer.
Companion planting
Pecans become very large trees with wide root systems. Keep them away from vegetable beds and buildings, and do not grow grass or crops right up to the trunk of young trees.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to pecan.
- Lawn and weeds Groundcovers up to the trunk slow young pecan growth and delay cropping.
Pests and diseases
Pecan scab is the main disease in humid regions. Pecan weevil is the most serious late-season insect.
Pests to watch for
- Pecan weevil Nuts that drop early in August, or nuts with a round exit hole in the shell left by the grub.
- Aphids Yellow or black aphids on leaves with sticky honeydew and sooty mold; black aphids cause yellow leaf blotches.
- Stink bugs Black spots on kernels and early nut drop.
- Webworm
Diseases to watch for
- Pecan scab Olive-brown to black spots on leaves and nut shucks, worst in wet weather; badly infected nuts drop or fail to fill.
Common questions
Do I need two pecan trees?
Yes. Pecans shed pollen at a different time from when their own flowers are ready, so you need at least one Type I and one Type II variety. Three varieties within about 150 feet is better.
How long until a pecan tree produces nuts?
Usually 5 to 10 years, depending on variety. 'Stuart', for example, often takes 8 to 10 years.
Which pecan is best for a backyard?
A scab-resistant variety, since large trees are hard to spray. NC State Extension suggests 'Amling', 'Elliott', 'Lakota' and 'Kanza', among others.
Why are my pecans empty or poorly filled?
Drought while nuts are filling in late summer, heavy scab, stink bugs or overcropping in an on year. Water deeply in late summer and keep trees healthy.
How far apart should pecan trees be planted?
About 60 to 80 feet in a landscape, as mature trees are very large.
Can I grow pecans in the North?
In the Midwest, choose short-season northern varieties from both pollination groups. In the Northeast, Mountain West and other short-season areas, hazelnuts or walnuts are better choices.
Sources we checked: NC State Extension: Growing Pecans in North Carolina.
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