How to grow Custard Apple
Updated October 2026
Custard apples are Annona fruits with sweet, creamy white pulp: the sugar apple (sweetsop) of South Florida, the atemoya, a sugar apple and cherimoya hybrid, and the cherimoya of coastal Southern California. They grow into small, attractive trees in frost free gardens. Fruit set is often poor because their natural beetle pollinators are scarce, so hand pollination or a self setting variety such as Gefner makes a big difference.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Custard Apple
Not to be confused with: Soursop and the American pawpaw are relatives in the same family. Pawpaw is a hardy tree for the East, not a tropical Annona.
Where to plant
Custard apples need warmth, full sun and well drained soil. UF/IFAS gives ideal temperatures of about 72 to 94°F (22 to 34°C), high humidity at flowering, steady moisture from flowering to harvest and a dry spell for a few months before spring bloom. Flooding for as little as 7 to 10 days can kill trees, so avoid low, wet ground. Young trees establish best out of the wind.
Sugar apple and atemoya suit South Florida and Hawaii, and atemoya copes best in warm, sheltered spots in Central Florida, where young trees need covering on frost nights. Cherimoya does best in mild coastal Southern California gardens sheltered from wind. North Florida, the Gulf Coast, Texas, the desert and the Pacific Northwest are too cold except in a container moved under cover, and the rest of the country needs a heated greenhouse.
Choosing a variety
Sugar apples are mostly grown from seed of selections such as Thai Lessard (green) and Kampong Mauve (purplish red), which come fairly true. For atemoya, UF/IFAS rates Gefner the most satisfactory in Florida: it does not need hand pollination and gives good fruit. Page crops well but fruit tends to split, and African Pride and Bradley set few fruit without hand pollination.
How to plant
- Buy a grafted tree (or a seedling sugar apple of a good selection) from a Florida or local fruit nursery.
- Plant in spring in full sun, at least 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 m) from other trees, buildings and power lines.
- Set the tree at the depth it grew in the pot, backfill with native soil and water well.
- Mulch around the tree, keeping the mulch a few inches from the trunk.
- Remove any fruit that sets in the first year or so, so the tree grows strongly.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil moist from flowering through harvest, and water young trees regularly in dry spells. UF/IFAS notes a few months of drier conditions before spring bloom suits the trees. Do not let lawn sprinklers on a timer keep the root zone wet, as too much water too often causes decline.
Feed young trees regularly for vigorous growth. From about the third year, reduce how often you feed, which helps flowering and fruit set. Avoid heavy lawn fertilizer near the tree, which can reduce fruiting.
Pruning and care through the year
- Natural fruit set is often under 3 percent because the small sap beetles that pollinate the flowers are scarce. UF/IFAS notes hand pollination can raise fruit set to nearly 100 percent: collect pollen from wide open flowers in the male stage in the late afternoon or evening, and the next morning dab it with a small brush onto the glistening centers of barely open flowers in the female stage.
- Strong winds with heavy crops can break limbs, so train young trees to a sturdy framework and plant out of the wind.
- Cover young trees on frost nights in Central Florida.
Harvesting
Do not pick immature fruit; it stays hard, browns and rots. As fruit matures, it turns from green to yellowish green, the areas between the bumps swell and turn pale, and a white or bluish bloom appears. Purple types darken and turn bright pink between the bumps.
Ripen picked fruit at room temperature until soft, then refrigerate; ripe sugar apples keep only 2 to 4 days. Atemoya is harvested mainly from August to October in Florida. Eat the pulp fresh with a spoon, discarding the seeds, or blend it into ice cream and shakes.
Pests and diseases
The annona seed borer is the most important pest of sugar apple in Florida.
Pests to watch for
- Annona seed borer Small wasp larvae that develop in the seeds and ruin young fruit, peaking in August and September in Florida. Bag young fruit in small paper bags or paint strainer bags.
- Mealybug White, cottony clusters on fruit and stems.
- Scale Plumose scale: dark brown to gray circular scales in the crotches of stems and shoots, weakening the tree.
Diseases to watch for
- Anthracnose Dark spots on fruit and flowers and fruit drop in wet weather.
- Root rot Yellowing, leaf drop, dieback and death in waterlogged or flooded soil.
Common questions
Why does my sugar apple or atemoya set so little fruit?
Natural fruit set is often under 3 percent because the small beetles that pollinate the flowers are scarce. Hand pollinate the flowers, or grow Gefner atemoya, which sets fruit without help.
What is the difference between sugar apple, atemoya and cherimoya?
Sugar apple (sweetsop) is a tropical Annona for South Florida. Cherimoya prefers cooler, mild climates such as coastal Southern California. Atemoya is a hybrid of the two, a little more tolerant of cool weather than sugar apple.
How do I know when a sugar apple is ready to pick?
The skin turns yellowish green, the areas between the bumps swell and turn pale, and a whitish bloom appears. Pick then and let it soften at room temperature.
How cold can custard apple trees take?
UF/IFAS notes young sugar apple trees are severely damaged or killed at 30 to 32°F, and mature trees at about 26 to 28°F.
Why are there worms in my sugar apple fruit?
Usually the annona seed borer, a small wasp whose larvae develop in the seeds. It peaks in late summer in Florida; bagging young fruit helps.
Sources we checked: UF/IFAS EDIS HS38: Sugar Apple Growing in the Florida Home Landscape; UF/IFAS EDIS HS64: Atemoya Growing in the Florida Home Landscape; UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: Sweetsop, Soursop and Atemoya.
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