How to grow Garlic
Updated October 2026
Garlic is planted as single cloves in fall and dug the following summer, and a small corner of the garden can supply a year of bulbs. The keys are choosing a type that suits your winters, planting large healthy cloves, and keeping the bed free of weeds.
📖 Our full guide: When to Plant Garlic: Fall Planting Guide for Every US Region
Where to plant
Garlic needs full sun and fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Heavy clay gives misshapen bulbs, and wet, compacted ground leads to rot, so work in compost or plant in raised beds. Garlic competes poorly with weeds, so start with a clean bed.
Fall planting gives the largest bulbs, because the cloves root before winter and the plants are bigger when bulbing begins. Ideally the first leaves should appear before the ground freezes, but not grow so much that they are damaged by winter.
- The Northeast, Midwest, Northern Plains, Mountain West and Alaska: plant in fall, from September in the coldest areas to October or early November, and mulch with 4 to 6 inches of clean straw after planting.
- The Mid-Atlantic, Mid-South, Southern Plains, Pacific Northwest and Northern California: plant in October or November.
- Florida, the Gulf South and Texas: plant from late fall through early winter. Choose softneck types such as Creole or artichoke garlic, which suit mild winters.
- Southern California and the Desert Southwest: plant in fall, in October and November in the low desert.
Choosing a variety
| Type | Notes |
|---|---|
| Hardneck | Fewer, larger cloves that peel easily, and a flower stalk (scape) that can be eaten. Best in cold-winter areas; does not store as long. Groups include rocambole, porcelain and purple stripe |
| Softneck | More cloves per bulb, usually higher yields and the longest storage, and the type for braids. Better suited to mild winters; artichoke and Creole types suit Florida and the South |
| Elephant garlic | Not a true garlic but a relative of leeks. Very large, mild cloves |
Buy planting garlic from a garden center or seed supplier. Grocery store garlic is often treated to stop sprouting and is usually a softneck type from a warmer region, so it may rot or grow poorly.
How to plant
- Just before planting, split the bulb into cloves. Plant only large, healthy cloves, as they make the biggest bulbs, and discard any that are soft or bruised.
- Set each clove with the flat base down and the pointed end up, 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep.
- Space cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 18 to 24 inches apart.
- In cold regions, cover the bed with 4 to 6 inches of weed-free straw after planting to protect the cloves through winter. In spring, pull the straw back between the rows as the shoots come up.
Watering and feeding
Garlic needs about 1 inch of water a week while the leaves are growing. Water in dry spells, then stop watering as the leaves begin to yellow before harvest, which helps the bulbs cure and reduces disease.
Garlic is a heavy feeder. Work a balanced fertilizer or compost into the bed before planting, and side-dress with a little more about 3 to 4 weeks after the shoots emerge in spring. A soil test is the best guide.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep the bed weeded. Garlic has shallow roots and loses yield quickly to weeds; straw mulch between rows helps.
- Cut off hardneck scapes once they have curled, before the flower head opens. This sends more energy into the bulb, and the scapes are good to eat.
- Fall-planted garlic sometimes sprouts during a warm spell in winter. The leaves can take temperatures into the 20s °F, so this rarely does lasting harm.
Harvesting
Dig garlic when the lower leaves have browned but several upper leaves are still green, roughly when about half the leaves have dried. In the Midwest that is usually July or August. Loosen the soil with a fork and lift the bulbs gently.
Dry the bulbs in a warm, dry, airy place out of direct sun until the tops have dried, then trim the roots and cut the tops about 1 inch above the bulb, or braid softnecks. Store in a cool, dry place with good airflow. Softneck types keep longest.
Growing in pots
Garlic grows in a container at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep, as long as it drains freely. Keep it watered, as pots dry out faster than beds.
Companion planting
Garlic takes little space and has a long season, so it fits well along bed edges and between slower crops.
Good companions
- Lettuce A quick cool-season crop that fits between the rows while the garlic is small.
- Beet Shares the cool season and does not shade the garlic.
- Tomato Garlic is often grown along the edges of tomato beds; there is little firm evidence that it repels pests.
- Strawberry Can share a bed edge, as both are low growing.
- Fruit trees (fruit trees in general. for example lemon tree, apple, peach and mandarin)
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to garlic.
Pests and diseases
Most garlic problems are soil-borne or come in on infected cloves. Rotation and clean planting stock prevent most of them.
Pests to watch for
- Thrips Silvery streaks on the leaves, worst in hot, dry weather.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
When should I plant garlic?
In fall in most of the country, a few weeks before the ground freezes. In the far North that can be September; in the Mid-Atlantic and similar areas it is usually October or November. In Florida and along the Gulf, plant from late fall into early winter.
Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?
It is better not to. Store garlic is often treated to stop it sprouting, and it is usually a softneck type grown in a warmer climate. Buy planting garlic suited to your region from a garden center or seed supplier.
Which garlic grows best in Florida and the South?
Softneck types. UF/IFAS recommends artichoke or Creole types for Florida gardens, as they suit mild winters. Hardneck types need a cold winter to bulb well.
When is garlic ready to dig?
When the lower leaves have browned but a few upper leaves are still green, roughly half dry.
Should I cut garlic scapes?
Yes. Cut hardneck scapes after they curl and before the flower head opens. The bulbs grow larger, and the scapes are good chopped into eggs, stir-fries and pesto.
Why did my garlic not form cloves?
A solid, single bulb called a round usually comes from planting a clove that was too small, planting late in spring, or poor growing conditions. Plant large cloves in fall for the best result.
How do I store garlic?
Dry the bulbs in a warm, airy, shaded spot, trim them, then keep them in a cool, dry place with good airflow, such as a mesh bag. Well-cured garlic keeps for three to six months or more; softneck types keep longest.
Sources we checked: Iowa State University Extension: Growing Garlic in the Home Garden; Ohio State University Extension: Growing Garlic in the Garden; UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: Garlic.
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