How to grow Hops
Updated October 2026
Hops are hardy perennial climbers that die back to the ground each winter and shoot up 15 to 20 feet every summer. Grow them for home brewing or as a fast summer screen over an arbor. They need a cold winter, full sun and, above all, something tall to climb.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Hops
Where to plant
Plant hops in a sunny, well-drained spot, away from plants that would suffer in their shade. Sandy or silt loam is ideal. Add compost to sandy soil to hold moisture, and something such as coconut coir to heavy clay to improve air in the soil. Hops do not like wet feet.
Plan the support first. Commercial hops grow on 18 to 20-foot trellises, but a 14 to 15-foot pole, trellis or string system is enough at home. A shorter support works if you do not need the biggest crop.
- The Pacific Northwest, Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, Northern Plains, Mountain West, Mid-South, Southern Plains and Northern California: plant dormant rhizomes in early spring once the ground thaws.
- Alaska: plant in May once the ground thaws. The short season means a light first crop.
- Florida, the Gulf South, Texas, the desert, Southern California and Hawaii: hops need cold winters and long summer days and crop poorly, so the calendar does not recommend them there.
Choosing a variety
Brewing hops are either bittering types, high in bitter acids, or aroma types with a more balanced oil profile. Ornamental hops are chosen for leaf color, such as golden or purple foliage, though many still produce cones. Oregon State University notes that 'Cascade' and 'Crystal' resist powdery mildew. Buy female plants from a virus-free source, as only females make cones.
How to plant
- Plant a dormant rhizome upright, with the top just below the soil surface, in early spring. Plant potted hops once the danger of a killing frost has passed, at the same level as in the pot.
- Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart if growing more than one.
- Water in well, then keep the soil evenly moist without waterlogging.
- In the first year, a 4-foot stake is enough; the aim is a strong root system rather than a crop. Do not strip leaves from young plants.
- From the second year, when new bines are about 3 feet long, choose a few strong ones and wind them clockwise around each string or pole. Remove or bury the rest.
Watering and feeding
Hops need steady moisture all season and grow very fast in summer heat, when a mature plant may use several gallons of water a day. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings rather than keeping it soggy. Water at the base, ideally by drip, to keep the leaves dry and reduce disease.
Feed with nitrogen in spring and early summer, for example a tablespoon of a balanced fertilizer near the plant every two weeks from April to mid-July. Feeding is not usually needed after mid-July.
Pruning and care through the year
- Unused bines climb anything they touch, including other plants, so trim them off or bury them to make new rhizomes.
- Where downy mildew is a problem, removing the leaves from the bottom 1 to 3 feet of each plant after training helps.
- Cut the dead bines down after frost in fall. The crown regrows from the rhizome in spring.
- Keep dogs away from hops, fresh or spent. The ASPCA lists hops as toxic to dogs.
Harvesting
Hops usually mature from mid-August to mid-September. Check cones from the upper part of the plant: ripe cones feel dry and papery, and the lupulin inside is golden yellow with a strong hoppy smell. Unripe cones feel soft and green, with pale lupulin.
Dry cones in a shady, airy place on mesh trays, below about 125°F if you use warm air. Seal dried cones in bags with the air pressed out and keep them in the refrigerator or freezer.
Propagation and saving seed
Take rhizomes from an established plant in winter while it is dormant. Cut pieces about 3 inches long with several buds and plant them upright. Stem cuttings with one node also root, best in spring and early summer, within about two weeks in moist sand.
Companion planting
Hops cast heavy shade and climb anything nearby, so give them their own support at the edge of the garden or on an arbor.
Good companions
Pests and diseases
Spider mites, hop aphids and the two mildews are the main hop problems in the US.
Pests to watch for
- Spider mites Fine speckling and bronzing of leaves and webbing, worst in hot, dry summer weather.
- Aphids Hop aphids on young growth and cones in spring and summer, with sticky honeydew and sooty mold.
Diseases to watch for
- Downy mildew Stunted, pale, brittle spring shoots and dark patches on leaves, mostly in wet climates.
- Powdery mildew White powdery patches on leaves and brown, deformed cones.
Common questions
How tall do hops grow?
Usually 15 to 20 feet in a season, and sometimes more. A 14 to 15-foot trellis or string is enough for home growing.
Do I need a male hop plant?
No. Only female plants produce cones, and they do not need a male to do so. Nurseries sell female plants.
When are hops ready to harvest?
Usually from mid-August to mid-September. Ripe cones feel dry and papery, and the yellow lupulin inside smells strongly of hops.
Why did my hops not produce cones in the first year?
That is normal. The first year is about building roots. Plants usually reach full production in their second or third season.
Are hops poisonous to dogs?
Yes. The ASPCA lists hops as toxic to dogs, causing panting, high temperature and seizures. Keep fresh, dried and spent brewing hops away from dogs.
Can I grow hops in Florida or Texas?
They crop poorly there. Hops need a cold winter and long summer days, which most of the Deep South and the tropics do not provide.
Sources we checked: Oregon State University Extension: Growing Hops in the Home Garden (EM 9115); ASPCA: Hops, toxic and non-toxic plants.
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