How to grow Plum
Updated October 2026
Plums come in three groups for US gardens: Japanese plums, juicy and low-chill, suited to the South and California; European plums, including prunes and damsons, for colder regions; and hardy native and hybrid plums for the far North. Most need a second variety of the same type to pollinate them. Choose a type and variety that matches your winter chill, plant bare-root while dormant, and prune to an open shape.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Plum
Where to plant
Plant plums in full sun in deep, well-drained soil, from sandy loam to sandy clay loam. Avoid low frost pockets, as plums bloom early, and in the Southeast avoid ground where root-knot nematodes have been a problem.
Match the plum to your winter. Japanese plums include low-chill varieties for Florida, the Gulf Coast and Southern California. European plums need colder winters. In the coldest areas, grow hardy hybrid or native plums.
- North and Central Florida: plant bare-root in January or February. Choose UF low-chill varieties such as Gulfbeauty, Gulfgold, Gulfruby or Gulfrose, and plant two for pollination.
- South Florida and Hawaii lowlands: too little winter chill for plums.
- Gulf South, Texas and the Desert Southwest: plant bare-root in January or February. Low-chill Japanese plums such as Methley suit much of the region; Santa Rosa suits the desert.
- Southern California: plant bare-root in January or February. Choose low-chill varieties such as Santa Rosa or Beauty. Northern California: plant from November to February.
- Mid-South, Mid-Atlantic and Southern Plains: plant while dormant in late winter or early spring. Japanese plums such as Methley and AU varieties suit the Southeast; European plums need the colder areas.
- Pacific Northwest, Northeast, Midwest and Mountain West: plant bare-root in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. European plums and hardy hybrids do well; fall planting of stone fruit is not recommended.
- Northern Plains and Alaska: choose very hardy hybrid or native plums such as Pembina, Toka or Superior, and plant two varieties for pollination.
Choosing a variety
- Japanese plums are juicy, often red or yellow, and mostly need a second Japanese variety for pollination. Methley and AU Amber are partly self-fruitful. Popular Southeastern varieties include Methley, AU Rubrum, AU Producer, Black Ruby and Ruby Sweet.
- European plums, such as Stanley, Italian prune and damsons, are denser and sweeter for drying and baking, need colder winters, and pollinate only with other European plums. Some are self-fruitful.
- Hardy hybrids such as Pembina, Toka and Superior, and native American plums, suit the coldest regions.
- Japanese and European plums cannot pollinate each other, so plant two varieties of the same type that bloom at the same time.
How to plant
- Plant bare-root trees while dormant, setting the graft union above the soil.
- Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole or feed right after planting; wait at least six weeks.
- Water in well and mulch a wide circle, keeping the mulch off the trunk.
- Cut back the young tree after planting to start an open-center or vase shape.
Watering and feeding
Water young trees deeply through their first summers, and water mature trees during dry spells while fruit is developing.
Clemson HGIC suggests feeding newly planted trees lightly in early spring, then twice a year from the second year, in March and again in early summer, spreading fertilizer under the whole canopy rather than near the trunk.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune while dormant, favoring outward-growing branches to spread the plum's upright form so light reaches the center of the tree and fruiting spurs.
- In humid areas, light summer pruning improves air flow and reduces brown rot.
- Thin heavy crops when fruit is small, leaving fruit a few inches apart, to improve size and prevent broken limbs.
- Net trees as fruit colors if birds are a problem.
Harvesting
Plums develop a powdery bloom on the skin as they ripen, soften slightly and pull free with a gentle twist. Japanese plums can be picked a few days before fully ripe and finished in a cool room; European plums are best left to ripen on the tree. Pick over several passes, as fruit ripens over a couple of weeks.
A mature tree may yield 2 to 3 bushels a year. Ripe plums keep about a week in the fridge and freeze well halved and pitted.
Using it
Eat plums fresh, bake them in tarts and crumbles, or make jam, sauces and chutneys. European prune plums are the best for drying.
Companion planting
Plums suit a mixed home orchard. Flowers and herbs at the drip line bring in pollinators, which plums need for fruit set.
Good companions
- Nasturtium Brings beneficial insects and pollinators to the orchard floor.
- Garlic A low, tidy crop that can grow at the edge of the tree's root zone.
- Chives Its flowers draw bees in spring when plums bloom.
- Marigold Draws hoverflies and other beneficial insects.
- Comfrey Grown a little way from the trunk, its leaves can be cut and dropped as mulch.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to plum.
- Walnut Black walnut releases juglone, which harms many fruit trees; keep plums well away from walnut roots.
Pests and diseases
Brown rot is the most common disease, and plum curculio the most common insect pest in the East. Good pruning, sanitation and picking up fallen fruit help with both.
Pests to watch for
- Plum curculio Crescent-shaped scars on young fruit, which then drops early or turns wormy.
- Fruit tree borers Gummy sap and sawdust at the base of the trunk where peachtree borer larvae feed.
- Birds Pecked fruit as it colors; net the tree.
Diseases to watch for
- Brown rot Ripening fruit turns brown and rots with gray-brown powdery spores, and blossoms can blight; remove mummified fruit.
- Black knot Hard, black, swollen galls on twigs and branches; prune out well below the knot and destroy.
- Bacterial canker Sunken, oozing cankers on branches and dieback; resistant rootstocks help.
- Silver leaf
Common questions
Do I need two plum trees?
Usually. Most plums are not self-fruitful and need another variety of the same type, Japanese with Japanese or European with European, blooming at the same time. Methley and AU Amber are partly self-fruitful, and some European plums are self-fruitful.
Can I grow plums in Florida?
In North and Central Florida, yes, with UF low-chill varieties such as Gulfbeauty, Gulfgold and Gulfruby. Plant two for pollination. South Florida does not get enough winter chill.
When are plums ripe?
When they have colored fully, developed a powdery bloom on the skin, softened slightly and pull free with a gentle twist. Japanese plums can be picked a few days early and ripened in a cool room.
What causes plums to rot on the tree?
Usually brown rot, a fungal disease that thrives in warm, wet weather. Prune for air flow, thin crowded fruit, remove rotten and mummified fruit, and clean up fallen fruit.
What are the black lumps on my plum branches?
Black knot, a fungal disease. Prune the knots out well below the swelling in winter and destroy them.
When should I plant a plum tree?
While it is dormant: January or February in Florida, the Gulf, Texas and Southern California, and early spring in colder regions. Fall planting of stone fruit is not recommended in cold areas.
Sources we checked: Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC: Plum (HGIC 1358); NC State Extension Plant Toolbox: Prunus americana.
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