How to grow Rhubarb
Updated October 2026
Rhubarb is a hardy perennial grown for its tart leafstalks, the first harvest of spring in northern gardens. Planted as dormant crowns, it crops for many years from the third season, and it thrives where winters freeze, roughly zones 3 to 7. In the warm South it does not survive summer, but it can be grown as a winter annual. Only the stalks are eaten; the leaves are toxic.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Rhubarb
Where to plant
Choose a sunny spot with fertile, loamy, well-drained soil and plenty of organic matter, and clear out perennial weeds first. Rhubarb rots in wet soil, so avoid low spots. As it stays for years, put it at the side or end of the vegetable garden, or use its bold leaves in a perennial border.
Rhubarb needs cold winters to rest. Varieties such as MacDonald, Crimson Red, Victoria and Canada Red grow well in zones 4 to 7. Cool nights also bring out the red stalk color; in the South, warm nights leave stalks greener and plants weaker.
- Northeast, Midwest, Northern Plains, Mountain West, the Pacific Northwest and Alaska: plant dormant crowns in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. It is a long-lived perennial here.
- Mid-Atlantic, Mid-South and Southern Plains: plant in early spring; give afternoon shade and mulch in hot summers.
- Northern California: plant dormant crowns in late winter or early spring.
- Southern California: mild winters give thinner stalks and short-lived plants. Choose Victoria, plant in fall or late winter, and give afternoon shade inland.
- North Florida, the Gulf South and Texas: grow it as a winter annual. Plant in fall (crowns, or seed started indoors in August in Texas), pick from about March, and pull it when the heat arrives.
- Central and South Florida, the Desert Southwest and Hawaii: not suited.
Choosing a variety
Rhubarb is usually bought as crowns or divisions, which come true to type. Plants from seed vary in color and size. MacDonald, Crimson Red, Canada Red, Valentine and Victoria are common choices. Some, such as Valentine, send up flower stalks more readily than others. Victoria is the variety most often grown from seed in warm areas.
How to plant
- Loosen the soil about 10 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure.
- Plant crowns as soon as you get them so they do not dry out; soak dry divisions in water for a few hours or overnight first.
- Space crowns about 3 feet apart and cover the buds with no more than 1 to 2 inches of soil.
- Water in well and mulch, keeping mulch off the crown buds.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil evenly moist through spring and summer, especially in dry spells, but never waterlogged, which causes crown and root rot.
Rhubarb is a heavy feeder. Top-dress with compost or manure in late fall or early spring, and feed again after the harvest ends to rebuild the crown.
Pruning and care through the year
- Cut flower stalks off at the base as soon as they appear; they take energy from the crown.
- After the last harvest, let the leaves grow on until frost kills them, as they feed the crown for next year.
- In cold areas, once the tops have died and the ground is frozen, a 2 to 3 inch layer of straw helps protect the crown.
- Divide crowns every 5 to 10 years, or when stalks become thin and crowded. Dig in early spring and replant pieces with at least one bud.
Harvesting
Do not harvest in the first year, and take only a few stalks in the second. From the third year, harvest from spring into early summer, about eight weeks in total. Grip each stalk near the base and pull it with a slight twist rather than cutting, then trim off the leaf.
Never take more than one third to one half of the stalks at a time, and stop when new stalks come up thin, a sign the crown is running low. Fresh stalks keep two to four weeks in the fridge.
Using it
Stew rhubarb with sugar, or bake it in pies, crumbles and cakes. It pairs well with strawberries and ginger. Only eat the stalks: the leaf blades contain large amounts of oxalic acid and must not be eaten.
Propagation and saving seed
Rhubarb is propagated by dividing the crown in early spring. Each piece needs at least one strong bud and some root. Seed is possible but slow, and the plants do not come true to color and size.
Companion planting
Rhubarb is a long-term perennial, so its neighbors are other permanent plantings.
Good companions
- Strawberry Another perennial that crops at the same time of year and can share the permanent fruit bed.
- Bush Beans An easy annual to grow nearby without competing with the big crowns.
- Brassicas Cool-season crops that suit the same rich, moist soil nearby.
- Beans
Pests and diseases
Rhubarb has few serious problems. Wet soil causes most losses.
Pests to watch for
- Rhubarb curculio A rusty, 3/4 inch snout beetle that bores into stalks, leaving holes and oozing sap. Keep nearby curly dock, its favorite weed host, pulled.
- Slugs and snails Holes chewed in leaves and young stalks in damp weather.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
Are rhubarb leaves poisonous?
Yes. The leaf blades contain large amounts of oxalic acid and should never be eaten. Only the stalks are used. Leaves can go on the compost heap.
When can I start harvesting rhubarb?
Not in the first year. Take only a few stalks in the second year, then harvest normally from the third year for about eight weeks in spring and early summer.
Should I cut off rhubarb flower stalks?
Yes. Remove them at the base as soon as they appear, as flowering takes energy from the crown and reduces the harvest.
Can rhubarb grow in the South?
Not as a perennial in most of the Deep South, because hot summers and warm winters weaken it. In North Florida, the Gulf South and Texas it can be grown as a winter annual, planted in fall and pulled when the heat arrives.
Why are my rhubarb stalks green instead of red?
Color depends on the variety and on cool nights. Some varieties, such as Victoria, are naturally greener. In warm areas, nights stay too warm for good red color. Green stalks taste just as good.
Should I cut or pull rhubarb stalks?
Pull them. Grip the stalk near the base and pull with a slight twist. Cut stubs can let rot into the crown.
Sources we checked: Ohio State University Extension: Growing rhubarb in the home garden (HYG-1631); University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension: Home gardening series, rhubarb (FSA6076); University of Illinois Extension: Rhubarb; Oregon State University Extension: Growing rhubarb (EC797).
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