How to grow Brussels Sprouts
Updated October 2026
Brussels sprouts are tall, slow growing cabbage relatives whose edible sprouts are the swollen leaf buds that form up the stem. They need a long, cool season and taste sweetest after a frost or two, so they are planted to mature in fall and early winter. Time them right and one plant gives a long run of firm, sweet sprouts.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Brussels Sprouts
Where to plant
Brussels sprouts need full sun and fertile, well drained soil. The goal is a long stalk before the buds begin to swell, then cool weather while the sprouts form. Sprouts that mature in warm weather turn loose, poorly formed and bitter.
In the North, the Midwest, the Mountain West, the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, set transplants out in late spring to early summer for a fall harvest, or in early spring in mild areas. In the Southeast, Clemson suggests transplanting from mid August to mid September in the Upstate and mid September to mid October on the coast, for sprouts from late fall into winter. In North and Central Florida, the Gulf South, Texas and Southern California, plant in early fall. South Florida and the low desert are too warm for firm sprouts.
Choosing a variety
Hybrids such as Jade Cross mature earlier and handle heat better than older types, which helps in the South and in short seasons. Long Island Improved is a dependable heirloom for cooler regions.
How to plant
- Start seed indoors 5 to 7 weeks before your planting date, a quarter to half an inch (6 to 12 mm) deep. In the South, this means sowing in early to midsummer.
- Plant out sturdy transplants with 4 to 6 leaves, 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart in rows 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Wider spacing gives bigger plants.
- Water well, and keep transplants watered through hot late summer weather. Mulch to keep the soil cool and moist.
- Cover with fabric row cover to keep off cabbage worms and aphids while the plants are young.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil evenly moist, about 1 to 2 inches of water a week, especially while the plants are building their stalks in late summer. Uneven watering gives poor, loose sprouts.
Work compost and a balanced fertilizer into the bed before planting, guided by a soil test, and side dress with nitrogen about a month after planting.
Pruning and care through the year
- As sprouts form from the bottom up, remove the lowest leaves; it hastens sprout development and improves air flow.
- Some growers pinch out the top growing point once plants reach 2 to 3 feet, which stops leaf growth and sends energy into the developing sprouts. It brings the harvest forward but ends further growth.
- Stake tall plants in windy gardens.
- Rotate cabbage family crops to a new bed each year.
Harvesting
Start at the bottom of the stalk once the lowest sprouts are firm, deep green and about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) across. Twist them off, or snap them sideways, and work up the stem over several weeks as more mature. Flavor improves after a frost or two.
In cold regions, plants stand light freezes well; harvest the remaining sprouts before a hard freeze, or pull the whole stalk and keep it somewhere cold. Sprouts keep a few weeks in the fridge.
Companion planting
Grow Brussels sprouts with low crops that will not compete with the tall, slow stalks.
Good companions
- Beet A low, quick crop for the gaps while the sprouts are young.
- Onion Narrow and low, so it fits between the rows.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to brussels sprouts.
- Tomato A summer crop with different timing; traditional charts keep it apart.
- Strawberry Traditionally kept apart from cabbage family crops.
Pests and diseases
Brussels sprouts get the same pests as other cabbage family crops, and aphids can hide inside the sprouts.
Pests to watch for
- Cabbage worms Green caterpillars chewing holes in the leaves and boring into sprouts.
- Aphids Gray, waxy colonies under leaves and packed between the sprout leaves.
- Flea beetles Tiny holes in young leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Clubroot Stunted plants that wilt on warm days, with swollen, distorted roots.
- Downy mildew Yellow patches on the upper leaf and gray fuzz underneath in cool, wet weather.
Common questions
Why are my Brussels sprouts loose and leafy?
They formed in warm weather. Sprouts that mature in heat stay loose and taste bitter. Time planting so the sprouts form in cool fall weather, and choose an early, heat tolerant hybrid in warm areas.
When do I harvest Brussels sprouts?
Start at the bottom when the lowest sprouts are firm, deep green and about 1 to 1.5 inches across, and work up the stalk over several weeks. They taste sweeter after a frost.
Should I cut the top off my Brussels sprouts?
You can. Pinching out the growing tip once plants are 2 to 3 feet tall stops leaf growth and sends energy into the sprouts, which brings the harvest forward. Leave it if you want the longest possible harvest.
Can I grow Brussels sprouts in the South?
Yes, as a late summer to fall crop. Clemson suggests starting seed in early July and transplanting from mid August to mid October, depending on the region, for a harvest from late fall into winter. South Florida and the low desert are too warm.
Why should I remove the lower leaves?
Removing the lowest leaves as the sprouts form from the bottom up hastens sprout development and lets air move around the stalk.
How long do Brussels sprouts take to grow?
They are slow: usually about three to four months from transplanting before the first sprouts are ready, and harvest then continues for weeks.
Sources we checked: Clemson HGIC: Start Brussels Sprouts Now for a Winter Harvest; Utah State University Extension: How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in Your Garden; University of Illinois Extension: Brussels Sprouts; Penn State Extension: Cole Crops for the Home Vegetable Garden.
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