How to grow Bell Pepper
Updated October 2026
Bell peppers are warm season plants that need a long, warm growing season, steady water and fertile soil. Fruit can be picked green or left to ripen to red, yellow or orange, when it is sweeter. Start transplants indoors well ahead, plant out only once the soil has warmed, and keep watering even to avoid blossom end rot.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Bell Pepper
Not to be confused with: Bell peppers are the same species as many chili peppers (Capsicum annuum), bred to be sweet and blocky. Hot peppers have their own page.
Where to plant
Peppers need full sun, a long warm season and fertile, well drained soil; they do poorly in heavy, wet ground, so use a raised bed if drainage is poor. Transplant once the soil is at least 60°F (16°C) and all danger of frost has passed. Very hot weather during flowering can make flowers and young fruit drop.
In North and Central Florida, the Gulf South, Texas and the desert, plant in late winter or early spring after the last frost, and again in midsummer for a fall crop. In frost free South Florida, plant from late summer through winter, and plants can crop for well over a year. In California, plant from March to July. Across the North, the Midwest, the Mountain West and the Pacific Northwest, plant out in late May or June, and use black plastic mulch and row covers to give plants a head start. In Alaska, grow them in a high tunnel or greenhouse.
Choosing a variety
UF/IFAS recommends California Wonder, Red Knight and Big Bertha as bell peppers that grow well in Florida, along with sweet types such as Sweet Banana, Giant Marconi, Mariachi and Cubanelle, a thin walled frying pepper that handles heat. Utah State lists Ace, Bell Boy, Big Bertha, California Wonder, Gypsy, King Arthur and Yolo Wonder among good sweet peppers for colder areas. Early maturing varieties are the safest choice where summers are short.
How to plant
- Start seed indoors 8 to 10 weeks before planting out. Germinate at about 80°F (27°C), then grow seedlings at 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) under bright light for 14 to 16 hours a day.
- Feed seedlings weekly with a half strength soluble fertilizer and harden them off before planting.
- Plant out stocky transplants 5 to 8 inches (13 to 20 cm) tall with 6 to 9 leaves once the soil is at least 60°F and frost has passed. Pick off any flowers or fruit at planting so the plant establishes first.
- Space plants about 18 inches (45 cm) apart in rows 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart.
- In cool regions, plant through black plastic mulch, which warms the soil, and keep the stems from touching the hot plastic.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply, about 1 to 2 inches a week, ideally by drip. Irregular watering, too much or too little, causes flowers to drop and blossom end rot on the fruit. Add organic mulch such as straw only once the soil is warmer than about 75°F (24°C).
Fertilize at planting and two or three times during the season, at the label rate. Once plants begin to set fruit, cut back on nitrogen; too much gives leafy plants and delays or reduces fruiting.
Pruning and care through the year
- Stake plants as the fruit load grows, to stop branches breaking.
- Under row covers, vent or remove them when air temperatures pass about 80°F (27°C).
- Good leaf cover shades the fruit and prevents sunscald, so avoid stripping leaves.
- Rotate peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes to new beds each year to reduce wilt and leaf spot diseases.
Harvesting
Bell peppers are ready about 60 to 80 days after transplanting, when firm, plump and full sized. Pick them green or leave them on the plant 35 to 45 days longer to ripen to full color and sweetness.
At the end of the season, pick all mature green and colored fruit before frost. Peppers keep 1 to 2 weeks at about 50 to 55°F (10 to 13°C); long storage in a cold fridge causes chilling injury.
Growing in pots
Bell peppers grow well in a pot at least 12 inches (30 cm) wide and deep, one plant per pot, in full sun. Water often in hot weather, feed regularly and give the plant a stake.
Companion planting
Peppers share a warm, sunny summer bed well with tomatoes and herbs.
Good companions
- Basil Same planting time and conditions; its flowers draw pollinators.
- Tomato Same season and care, though both should rotate together to a new bed each year.
- Carrot Grows below the peppers without competing for space.
- Marigold Bright flowers that draw hoverflies and other beneficial insects.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to bell pepper.
Pests and diseases
Aphids, caterpillars and uneven watering cause most problems.
Pests to watch for
- Aphids Soft insects under the leaves, sticky honeydew and curled leaves; they also spread viruses.
- Flea beetles Tiny holes in the leaves of young transplants.
- Tomato hornworm Large green caterpillars and dark droppings, with leaves and fruit chewed.
Diseases to watch for
- Blossom end rot A dark, sunken, leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit, from uneven watering and calcium shortage in the fruit.
- Bacterial spot Small, dark, water soaked spots on leaves and raised, scabby spots on fruit in warm, wet weather; leaves may yellow and drop.
- Mosaic virus Mottled light and dark green, curled, stunted leaves and misshapen fruit. Remove affected plants and control aphids.
Common questions
Why are my peppers getting black spots on the bottom?
Blossom end rot, caused by a calcium shortage in the fruit that comes from uneven watering, drought stress, root damage or too much nitrogen. Water deeply and evenly, mulch, and avoid heavy feeding.
Why are my pepper flowers falling off?
Usually heat during flowering, or irregular watering. Very hot weather causes flower and fruit drop; fruit sets again when temperatures ease.
How long do bell peppers take to turn red?
About 35 to 45 days from flowering to full color, depending on temperature and variety. Green peppers are simply picked before they ripen.
When should I plant peppers?
After the last frost, once the soil is at least 60°F. In Florida, Texas and the Gulf South, plant in early spring and again in midsummer for fall. In the North, plant out in late May or June.
Should I fertilize my peppers?
Yes, at planting and two or three times during the season, but cut back on nitrogen once fruit is setting, as too much gives leafy plants with fewer peppers.
Can I keep a pepper plant over winter?
In frost free South Florida and Hawaii, peppers can keep cropping for well over a year. Elsewhere they are grown as summer annuals and killed by frost.
Sources we checked: Utah State University Extension: How to Grow Peppers in Your Garden; UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: Peppers.
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