How to grow Fig
Updated October 2026
Figs are among the easiest fruit to grow in the South and California: few pests, little pruning and two crops a year on many varieties. The common figs grown in home gardens set fruit without pollination, and closed eye varieties resist souring in wet summers. Hardy types such as Celeste, Brown Turkey and Chicago Hardy also grow further north with winter protection.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Fig
Where to plant
Plant figs in full sun, at least 8 hours a day, in well drained soil away from low, wet spots. Avoid ground with a history of root-knot nematodes, which are the most serious problem in sandy Southern soils. In colder areas, the south side of a building gives reflected warmth and shelter, and wind protection reduces winter injury.
Figs grow in Florida, the Gulf South, Texas, the desert and California, where they need little chill and love long, warm summers. In the Mid-South, Mid-Atlantic, Southern Plains and Pacific Northwest, choose hardy varieties and mulch the base for the first winters; a hard freeze can kill young plants to the ground, though they regrow. In the Northeast, Midwest and Mountain West, Chicago Hardy or Brown Turkey can survive zone 6 and 7 with heavy winter protection, often dying back; otherwise grow a fig in a pot and store it in a garage for winter. The Northern Plains and Alaska need a pot or greenhouse.
Choosing a variety
Buy common figs, which set fruit without pollination. Clemson warns against the kinds of figs grown commercially in California, which need pollination by a tiny wasp that cannot survive in the Southeast. In humid regions, closed eye varieties resist souring, as insects cannot get into the fruit.
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Celeste | Small, sweet, light brown to violet; cold hardy and rust resistant; one of the best in the Southeast, though it can drop fruit in very hot weather |
| Brown Turkey | Medium bronze fruit; hardy and widely grown |
| LSU Purple | Productive, disease tolerant Southern fig with dark fruit |
| LSU Gold | Large yellow fruit, good fresh |
| Chicago Hardy | Regrows and fruits on new wood after dying back; for the coldest fig regions |
How to plant
- Test the soil and adjust it before planting.
- Plant while dormant: bare root figs in late winter in warm areas, or in spring after hard freezes in colder ones. Container figs can go in a little later.
- Set the plant at the depth it grew or slightly deeper, and water well.
- Mulch 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) deep to hold moisture and protect the shallow roots.
- Choose tree form in warm regions; in cold regions, grow figs as a multi stemmed bush that can regrow if frozen back.
Watering and feeding
Figs need about 1 inch of water a week from rain or irrigation, especially while fruit is ripening; drought causes fruit drop. Mulch keeps the shallow roots moist. Do not overwater, as saturated soil causes root rot.
Figs grow well in moderately fertile soil without much fertilizer. Feed only on poor soils, lightly and only through midsummer. Too much nitrogen gives vigorous growth with fruit that fails to ripen or drops.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune lightly in late winter, after the coldest weather but before growth starts: remove dead wood, open the center and keep the plant within bounds.
- Many figs bear a light early crop on last year's wood and a main crop on new growth, so heavy winter pruning reduces the early crop.
- In cold regions, protect young plants in winter with mulch or wrapping, and cut back frozen wood in spring.
- Net plants or pick daily to beat birds.
Harvesting
Pick figs only when fully soft and drooping on the stalk; they do not ripen after picking, and a firm fig has little flavor. Harvest every day or two during the main crop.
Fresh figs are perishable and keep only a few days in the fridge. Dry, freeze or preserve any surplus.
Growing in pots
Figs grow well in large containers, at least 18 inches (45 cm) wide, which is the best way to grow them in cold regions: keep the pot in full sun in summer and move it into an unheated garage or shed for winter once it drops its leaves.
Propagation and saving seed
Figs are easy to propagate. Dig and replant suckers, or take 8 to 10 inch (20 to 25 cm) cuttings of one year old wood in early spring and set them in a prepared bed with one or two buds above ground. They root quickly and can be moved the following fall.
Pests and diseases
Clemson lists root-knot nematodes, rust, fruit souring and cold injury as the common problems.
Pests to watch for
- Root-knot nematodes Stunted, declining plants with knotted, swollen roots, mostly in sandy soils.
- Birds Ripe figs pecked on the tree. Net or pick at first softening.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
Do I need two fig trees?
No. The common figs grown in home gardens set fruit without pollination. Avoid the kinds grown commercially in California, which need a special wasp to set fruit.
Why are my figs dropping before they ripen?
Young, vigorous plants often drop fruit, as do plants given too much nitrogen or too little water. Celeste also drops fruit in very hot weather. Stop feeding vigorous plants, water steadily, and be patient; figs may take 3 to 4 years to bear reliably.
Why do my figs taste sour and ooze from the end?
Fig souring, caused by yeasts carried in by insects through the eye. It cannot be controlled with sprays; grow closed eye varieties such as Celeste.
When are figs ripe?
When they are fully soft and the fruit droops on its stalk. Figs do not ripen after picking.
Can I grow figs in a cold climate?
In zones 6 and 7, hardy varieties such as Chicago Hardy and Brown Turkey can survive with winter protection, sometimes dying back. Colder than that, grow a fig in a pot and store it in a garage for winter.
When should I prune my fig?
In late winter, after the coldest weather and before growth begins. Figs need little pruning: remove dead wood, open the center and keep the size in check.
Sources we checked: Clemson HGIC 1353: Figs, How to Grow and Care for Figs in South Carolina.
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