How to grow Olive
Updated October 2026
Olive is a tough, silver-leaved Mediterranean tree that loves long, hot, dry summers and cool winters. It is at home in California and the Southwest and can be grown with care in North Florida, the Gulf Coast, Texas and sheltered parts of the Pacific Northwest. It needs excellent drainage, little fertilizer and, for good crops, a second variety for pollination.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Olive
Where to plant
Olives need full sun and very well-drained soil. They grow in almost any well-drained soil up to pH 8.5 and tolerate mild salinity, but they are prone to root rot in moist or wet soil, so avoid low spots where water stands after rain. Sandy soils suit them best in Florida.
Olives need some winter cold to flower, generally about 200 to 300 chill hours, and a long, hot summer. They can be grown where winter temperatures stay above about 12°F, though green fruit is damaged at about 28°F. Heavy rain and humidity during flowering reduce fruit set.
- California and the Desert Southwest: classic olive country. Plant container trees in spring after frost, or in fall in mild areas.
- North Florida and the Gulf South: marginal; olives need excellent drainage and struggle in wet, humid summers. Choose a variety tested in the Southeast such as 'Arbequina'.
- Texas: marginal; choose cold-hardy varieties such as 'Arbequina' and protect trees when temperatures drop below about 15°F.
- The Pacific Northwest: marginal; short dips to about 25°F are survivable but long freezes and wet winter soil injure trees. Use a variety grown in Oregon and the warmest, best-drained spot.
- Central and South Florida do not get enough winter chill for most olives.
Choosing a variety
'Arbequina' is the variety most often suggested for the Southeast, Texas and Oregon. Many olives are partly or fully self-incompatible: UF/IFAS notes that 'Manzanillo', 'Picual' and 'Arbequina' are self-incompatible, and some pairs such as 'Mission' with 'Manzanillo' do not pollinate each other. If you want fruit, plant at least two distinctly different, compatible varieties close together.
How to plant
- Plant a container-grown tree in spring after the last frost, in full sun, in the best-drained spot you have. On heavy soil, plant on a raised mound.
- Water in well, then water regularly the first year while roots establish.
- Plant a second, compatible variety nearby for pollination.
Watering and feeding
Established olives survive long dry spells and need deep but infrequent watering. Too much water, whether from irrigation or a wet climate, encourages root rot and can make flowers drop.
Feed lightly. Olives need few nutrients and do not crop well on very fertile soil. Too much nitrogen gives lots of shoots and few fruit, and lowers oil quality.
Pruning and care through the year
- Olives flower on the previous season's growth and never fruit twice in the same place, so prune lightly each year to keep new shoots coming. Pruning also opens the canopy to air, which reduces disease.
- Olives tend to bear heavily every other year. For bigger fruit, thin to two or three fruit per foot of twig soon after fruit set.
- In California, olive has escaped into grasslands and shrublands, and the California Invasive Plant Council rates it a limited invasive. Avoid planting near open space, or choose a fruitless variety.
Harvesting
Olives turn from green to blackish purple as they ripen, though some varieties stay green or turn copper brown. Pick green for green olives or ripe for black olives. Fresh olives are extremely bitter and must be cured in brine or lye before eating.
Companion planting
Olives suit a dry, sunny Mediterranean-style planting with other drought-tolerant plants that do not need much water or fertilizer.
Good companions
- Lavender Likes the same sun, sharp drainage and lean soil.
- Rosemary Another Mediterranean shrub with the same dry, sunny needs.
- Thyme A low, drought-tolerant herb for the edge of the bed.
- Nasturtium
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to olive.
- Lawn and weeds Lawn watering keeps the soil too wet for olive roots.
Pests and diseases
Olives have few pests in home gardens. Wet soil and humid weather cause most problems in the Southeast.
Pests to watch for
- Scale Bumps on stems and leaves with sticky honeydew and black sooty mold.
- Stink bugs Feeding damage on developing fruit.
Diseases to watch for
- Root rot Yellowing, wilting and decline in wet or poorly drained soil.
- Anthracnose Rotting fruit and dieback in warm, wet weather; can reduce flowering.
- Peacock spot
- Verticillium wilt
Common questions
Can I grow olives in Florida?
In North Florida, with care. Olives need excellent drainage, some winter chill and dry conditions at flowering, and Florida's heavy rain is a challenge. Central and South Florida usually lack enough winter chill.
Do I need two olive trees?
For good crops, usually yes. Many olives, including 'Arbequina', 'Manzanillo' and 'Picual', are self-incompatible. Plant two distinctly different, compatible varieties close together.
Why does my olive tree only fruit every other year?
Olives naturally tend to alternate heavy and light crops. Light annual pruning to keep new growth coming and thinning a heavy crop help even it out.
Can I eat olives straight from the tree?
No. Fresh olives are extremely bitter and must be cured in brine, water or lye before they are edible.
How cold can an olive tree take?
Most olives grow where winters stay above about 12°F, but green fruit is damaged at about 28°F and long freezes do more damage than short ones.
Is olive invasive?
In California, olive has naturalized in grasslands and shrublands, and the California Invasive Plant Council rates it a limited invasive. Avoid planting near open space or choose a fruitless variety.
Sources we checked: UF/IFAS EDIS: Olives for Your Florida Landscape (EP515); UF/IFAS Extension St. Lucie County: Growing Olive Tree in Florida; California Invasive Plant Council: Olea europaea profile.
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