How to grow Parsnip
Updated October 2026
Parsnips are slow, sweet root vegetables that need a long, cool season and taste best after several frosts. They are simple to grow once up, but the seed is slow and must be fresh, and the roots need deep, loose, stone-free soil to grow long and straight.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Parsnip
Not to be confused with: Parsnip looks like a pale carrot, and Hamburg parsley's root looks similar too. Wild parsnip, a weedy roadside relative, has sap that can cause severe skin burns in sunlight.
Where to plant
Parsnips need full sun and fertile, deep, well-drained, sandy soil rich in organic matter. Heavy soil should be dug deeply and amended with compost, and stony or compacted soil gives forked roots. They grow best when temperatures stay below about 75°F; summer heat slows growth and makes roots bitter.
Parsnips need the whole season to size up, so they are sown in spring in the North and in fall where winters are mild.
- The Northeast, Midwest, Northern Plains, Mountain West and Alaska: sow in spring as soon as the soil can be worked; summer sowings do not mature before the ground freezes.
- The Mid-Atlantic and Southern Plains: sow in March or April.
- The Mid-South: sow in March or April, or in August or September for roots to dig through winter.
- The Pacific Northwest: sow from March to May; roots can stay in the ground through the mild winter.
- Northern California: sow in July or August so roots grow through the mild fall and winter.
- Florida, the Gulf South, Texas, the desert and Southern California: sow in fall so the roots grow through the cool months; parsnips struggle in heat.
How to plant
- Use fresh seed every year; parsnip seed loses viability quickly after one year.
- Sow 1/4 inch deep after the soil reaches about 40°F, ideally 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in the North. Cover the seed with compost or fine sand to stop the soil crusting.
- Keep the soil surface evenly moist until seedlings appear, which takes 14 to 21 days. Sowing a few radish seeds in the row marks it and helps break any crust.
- Sow thickly and thin to 3 to 6 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Watering and feeding
Water regularly, about 1 to 2 inches a week, and keep moisture even. Uneven watering causes cracked, bitter roots, and overwatering gives hairy, forked roots. Mulch in summer to keep the soil cool and moist.
Side-dress with a little nitrogen about six weeks after emergence and again four weeks later. Avoid fresh manure, which causes forking.
Pruning and care through the year
- Cover young seedlings with fabric row cover to keep egg-laying flies off.
- Wear gloves and long sleeves when handling the foliage, especially in sun; parsnip sap contains compounds that can make skin burn in sunlight.
- Do not let plants flower in their second year; wild parsnip is a weedy, potentially invasive plant.
Harvesting
Roots are usually mature 100 to 120 days after sowing, but taste best after several weeks of cool, frosty weather, which sweetens them. Loosen the soil with a fork and lift the roots by the tops.
In cold areas, leave parsnips in the ground under a heavy straw mulch and dig as needed through winter. Stored roots keep 2 to 4 weeks in the refrigerator, or several months in moist sand in a cool cellar. Do not store them near apples or pears, which make them bitter.
Companion planting
Parsnips take a long time to fill their row, so quick crops can share the space early in the season.
Good companions
- Radish Sown in the same row, it marks the slow parsnips and breaks soil crust.
- Bush beans A traditional pairing for the spaces between rows.
- Rosemary A traditional pairing in older garden lore.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to parsnip.
- Carrot Shares the same pests, including carrot rust fly; rotate the two.
Pests and diseases
Root flies and leaf diseases are the main problems. Row covers and rotation prevent most of them.
Pests to watch for
- Carrot rust fly Small white maggots tunneling into the roots; use row cover on seedlings.
- Aphids Clusters on the leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Leaf spot Leaf blights cause spotting when leaves stay wet for long periods.
- Root rot Root rots and spots, including canker, that make roots decay or misshapen; rotate crops.
- Powdery mildew White powdery coating on older leaves late in the season.
Common questions
Why didn't my parsnip seed come up?
Old seed or crusted, dry soil are the usual causes. Parsnip seed loses viability after a year, so buy fresh seed, cover it with compost or sand, and keep the row moist for the 2 to 3 weeks it takes to sprout.
When are parsnips ready?
About 100 to 120 days after sowing, but they taste sweetest after several weeks of frosty weather. Many gardeners leave them in the ground over winter and dig as needed.
Why are my parsnips forked or hairy?
Stony, heavy or compacted soil, fresh manure and overwatering all cause forked or hairy roots. Grow them in deep, loose, sandy soil and water evenly.
Can parsnip leaves burn your skin?
The sap contains compounds that can make skin sensitive to sunlight and cause burns, especially from wild parsnip. Wear gloves and long sleeves when handling the foliage.
Can I grow parsnips in Florida?
Sow in fall so the roots grow through the cool months. Parsnips prefer long, cool seasons and turn bitter in heat, so Florida crops can be less reliable than northern ones.
Sources we checked: Utah State University Extension: How to Grow Parsnips in Your Garden; NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Pastinaca sativa.
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