How to grow Grapefruit Tree
Updated October 2026
A grapefruit tree is a big, heavy-cropping citrus for warm, nearly frost-free gardens, and one tree is usually plenty for a household. Before you plant, check the citrus quarantine rules where you live, because citrus greening and the Asian citrus psyllid that spreads it now shape how citrus can be bought and moved.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Grapefruit in the US
Where to plant
Plant grapefruit in full sun. Citrus tolerate light shade but crop best in full sun, and the trees grow large, so keep them at least 15 feet from other trees and well clear of buildings, septic tanks and drain fields.
Frost is the main limit. Where freezes come every few years, choose hardier citrus such as satsuma or kumquat instead. Texas A&M AgriLife notes that the length of a freeze matters more than the lowest temperature, so a few hours at 26°F does more harm than a brief dip to 24°F.
- Central and South Florida: the classic grapefruit country. Plant container trees at any time of year.
- Southern and Northern California and the Desert Southwest: plant in spring once frost has passed, in the warmest spot you have. Grapefruit needs a lot of summer heat to sweeten.
- Hawaii: grows well at low elevations.
- North Florida, the Gulf South and Texas outside the Rio Grande Valley: freezes are too frequent for grapefruit, which is why this page does not recommend it there. Grow cold-hardy citrus instead.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Ruby Red (Redblush) | Red flesh and few seeds; matures from about November to May in Florida |
| Flame | Red flesh, few seeds, popular for home gardens |
| Rio Red and Star Ruby | Deep red flesh with few seeds; Rio Red is the main grapefruit of the Texas Rio Grande Valley |
| Marsh | White flesh, few seeds; the standard white grapefruit |
| Duncan | White flesh with many seeds, but one of the best flavored for home use |
UF/IFAS notes that grapefruit varieties are prone to scab, greasy spot and melanose, mostly blemishes on the fruit skin. Buy a grafted tree from a licensed nursery that sells certified, disease-free citrus.
How to plant
- Buy a certified, container-grown tree from a licensed local nursery. In quarantine areas, citrus plants must not be brought in from outside.
- Plant at the same soil level as the tree grew in its pot. Remove some of the potting mix from the outside of the root ball so the outer roots grow out into the surrounding soil.
- Build a ring of soil around the tree to make a watering basin that holds 5 to 10 gallons.
- Fill the basin twice a week for the first month, then water whenever new growth wilts in the afternoon.
- Keep grass, weeds and mulch away from the trunk. UF/IFAS advises keeping any mulch at least a foot from the trunk to prevent foot rot.
Watering and feeding
Water young trees deeply and often while they establish. Established trees in southern Texas need about 1 to 2 inches of water a week in the growing season, applied over a wide area rather than in one deep puddle, as most feeder roots are in the top foot or two of soil. Never keep the soil saturated.
Start feeding three weeks after planting. UF/IFAS suggests a balanced citrus fertilizer with micronutrients, such as one with 8 percent each of nitrogen, phosphate and potash, about every six weeks from February to October in the first year, then fewer, larger feeds as the tree grows. Spread it under the canopy and beyond, never against the trunk.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove shoots that grow from below the graft, as they come from the rootstock.
- Mature trees need little pruning. Remove dead wood and water sprouts, and prune only to keep the tree clear of paths and buildings, as heavy pruning cuts the crop.
- Before a hard freeze, water the ground well a few days ahead, pull mulch back so the soil can store heat, and cover young trees to the ground with frost cloth or blankets.
- Check new shoots regularly for Asian citrus psyllid and report suspected citrus greening to your state department of agriculture or extension office.
Harvesting
Grapefruit ripens slowly and holds well on the tree, so you can pick over many months, roughly from November to May in Florida depending on the variety. Taste one to check: color alone is not a reliable guide. Clip or twist the fruit off with its button.
Picked fruit keeps for a few weeks in the refrigerator.
Using it
Grapefruit and grapefruit juice can change how some prescription and over-the-counter medicines work, including some statins and blood pressure drugs. The FDA advises checking the label and asking your pharmacist if you take regular medicine.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with the area under the canopy clear of grass and weeds, which compete for water and food and can encourage foot rot at the trunk.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid near the drip line as a mulch, kept well away from the trunk. It is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to grapefruit tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds under the canopy compete with citrus roots, and weeds at the trunk can promote foot rot.
Pests and diseases
Citrus greening is the serious threat. Most other problems in home trees are cosmetic, and many citrus pests are held in check by natural enemies.
Pests to watch for
- Asian citrus psyllid Tiny, mottled brown insects about 1/8 inch long that feed head down with the body raised at an angle on new shoots; the nymphs leave white, waxy strands. They spread citrus greening.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in young leaves, which curl and distort; mostly cosmetic on established trees.
- Scale Small bumps on leaves and twigs, with sticky honeydew and black sooty mold.
Diseases to watch for
- Citrus greening (HLB) Blotchy, uneven yellowing of leaves, and small, lopsided, unevenly colored, hard fruit with little juice. There is no cure.
- Citrus canker Raised, corky lesions with a yellow halo on leaves, twigs and fruit; report suspected cases to your extension office.
- Melanose Small, raised, rough brown specks on fruit and leaves, spread from dead twigs.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on young fruit and leaves.
Common questions
Can I grow grapefruit outside Florida?
Yes, in warm, nearly frost-free areas such as the Texas Rio Grande Valley, southern Arizona, parts of California and Hawaii. Where freezes are frequent, grow cold-hardy citrus such as satsuma or kumquat instead.
Can I bring a citrus tree from another state?
Often not. USDA rules restrict moving citrus plants out of areas quarantined for citrus greening, and states also have their own citrus quarantines. Buy certified trees from a licensed nursery in your own state, and never move citrus plants, cuttings or homegrown fruit out of a quarantine area.
What is citrus greening?
Citrus greening, or huanglongbing (HLB), is a bacterial disease spread by the Asian citrus psyllid. It causes blotchy yellow leaves and small, lopsided, poorly colored fruit, and it eventually kills the tree. There is no cure. USDA reports it throughout Florida and Georgia and in parts of Alabama, California, Louisiana, South Carolina and Texas.
When is grapefruit ripe?
Most varieties are ready from about November and hold on the tree until May or later in Florida. Taste a fruit to check, as the skin can color before the flesh is sweet.
Does grapefruit interact with medicines?
Yes. Grapefruit and its juice can affect how some medicines work, including some statins and blood pressure drugs. The FDA advises reading the medicine label and asking your pharmacist or doctor.
How much should I water a grapefruit tree?
Water young trees twice a week at first, then whenever new growth wilts in the afternoon. Established trees in hot areas need about 1 to 2 inches of water a week in the growing season, spread over the whole root area.
Should I mulch my grapefruit tree?
UF/IFAS does not recommend mulch around citrus in Florida, and if you use it, keep it at least a foot from the trunk. Pull mulch back before a freeze so bare, moist soil can release heat to the tree.
Sources we checked: UF/IFAS EDIS: Citrus Culture in the Home Landscape (HS132); USDA APHIS: Citrus Greening and Asian Citrus Psyllid; UF/IFAS EDIS: Asian citrus psyllid, Diaphorina citri (IN160); Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, Bexar County: Growing Your Own Citrus; FDA: Grapefruit Juice and Some Drugs Don't Mix.
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