Menu
Open the App → Home

Explore

The Hub Books
Your region
View region guide →
🍐

How to grow Asian Pear

Updated June 2026

Asian pears give round, crisp, juicy fruit that ripens on the tree and is ready to eat the moment you pick it. Plant two varieties that bloom together, choose for your winter chill and fire blight risk, and thin the fruit hard for good size.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Nashi (Asian Pear)

Plant
Bare root trees in late winter or early spring
First crop
Usually in the third or fourth year
Sun
Full sun
Soil
Deep, well-drained, pH 5.9 to 6.5
Spacing
At least 10 to 15 ft apart
Chill
Most need about 600 to 900 hours
Pollination
Plant two varieties that bloom together
Harvest
Mid to late summer, by variety

Not to be confused with: European pears such as Bartlett, which are picked hard and ripened indoors. See our Pear guide.

Where to plant

Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends deep, well-drained soil at pH 5.9 to 6.5, a soil test before planting, and full sun. Trees can pass 20 ft if left unpruned, so space them at least 10 to 15 ft apart.

Most Asian pears need about 600 to 900 hours of winter chill. Hosui, Shinseiki and Twentieth Century need the least and suit milder winters. Fire blight is the biggest problem, especially in the humid South, where the resistant Shinko is the safest choice.

  • Florida: not recommended in Central and South Florida; North Florida is marginal, with Shinko.
  • Gulf South and Texas: choose fire blight resistant varieties such as Shinko.
  • Southern and Northern California: lower chill varieties such as Hosui, Shinseiki and Twentieth Century.
  • Pacific Northwest, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest and Northeast: most varieties grow well; avoid frost pockets for the blossom.
  • Northern Plains and Alaska: too cold for most Asian pears.

Choosing a variety

VarietyFruitNotes
ShinkoRusseted, sweetBest fire blight resistance
HosuiLarge, russeted golden brown, excellent qualityLower chill; highly susceptible to fire blight
ShinseikiYellow, crispLower chill; tends to be self-fruitful
Twentieth Century (Nijisseiki)Green-yellow, crisp and juicyLower chill; highly susceptible to fire blight

Clemson notes all Asian pears crop best with cross-pollination from a second variety blooming at the same time; Chinese types bloom earlier than Japanese types, so check that bloom times overlap.

How to plant

  1. Plant bare root trees in late winter or early spring while dormant, or in fall where winters are mild.
  2. Dig a hole wider than the roots and set the tree at the depth it grew in the nursery, graft union above the soil.
  3. Backfill, firm and water well, then mulch, keeping mulch off the trunk.
  4. Plant a second variety that blooms at the same time within easy reach of bees.

Watering and feeding

Water young trees regularly through their first two summers, and water established trees deeply in dry spells while the fruit sizes.

Clemson suggests splitting a balanced fertilizer such as 10 to 10-10, half before growth starts and half after fruit set, at about a third to half a cup per year of tree age, up to 8 cups a tree. Too much nitrogen invites fire blight.

Pruning and care through the year

  • Thin hard: Clemson advises thinning 14 to 40 days after petal fall to one fruit per spur cluster, or about 6 in between fruits. Asian pears overset badly without it.
  • Prune in the dormant season, removing about 10 percent of the older spurs each year. Several scaffold limbs, rather than a single leader, limit the damage if fire blight strikes.
  • Cut out fire blight strikes, blackened shoots bent like a shepherd's crook, well below the damage in dry weather, disinfecting tools between cuts.
  • Net or bag fruit against birds.

Harvesting

Asian pears ripen on the tree. Pick when the skin turns yellow to yellow-green, or golden brown on russeted types, and the fruit lifts off with a gentle twist. They are crisp and ready to eat right away.

Handle them gently, as the skin bruises, and refrigerate; they keep for weeks, longer than most tree fruit.

Growing in pots

A tree on a dwarfing rootstock can grow in a container at least 20 in wide, with a second variety nearby for pollination. Water often and protect the pot from hard freezes.

Using it

Eat Asian pears fresh and crisp, slice them into salads and slaws, or grate them into Korean marinades for beef, where the juice tenderizes the meat.

Common questions

Do Asian pears need a pollinator?

Yes. Clemson notes Asian pears are self-incompatible and need a second variety blooming at the same time. Shinseiki tends to be self-fruitful but still crops better with a partner.

Which Asian pear resists fire blight?

Shinko has the best resistance. Hosui and Twentieth Century are popular but highly susceptible, so avoid them where fire blight is common.

Can I grow Asian pears in Florida?

Only in North Florida, and even there it is marginal. Central and South Florida lack the winter chill, and fire blight is severe in the humidity.

When are Asian pears ripe?

When the skin turns yellow to yellow-green, or golden brown on russeted types, and the fruit lifts off easily. They ripen on the tree and are eaten crisp.

Why are my Asian pears small?

Usually too many fruit. Thin to one fruit per spur cluster, about 6 in apart, two to six weeks after petal fall.

Is an Asian pear the same as a Callery pear?

No. Asian pear is Pyrus pyrifolia, grown for fruit. Callery pear (Bradford pear) is Pyrus calleryana, an invasive ornamental tree in many states.

Sources we checked: Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC: Asian pear; Penn State Extension: Asian pears in the home orchard, variety selection.

Loading sow calendar…

Get next month's planting calendar, free

One email a month with exactly what to plant in your region, plus seasonal tips and harvest reminders. No spam, and you can unsubscribe any time.