How to grow Collard Greens
Updated October 2026
Collard greens are the classic Southern green and one of the toughest members of the cabbage family. They handle more heat than most brassicas, withstand frosts and light to moderate freezes, and taste sweeter after cold weather. Picked leaf by leaf from the bottom up, a few plants supply greens for months.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Collard Greens
Not to be confused with: Collards are the same species as cabbage and kale, a leafy, non heading form. Kale is similar but usually has curlier or narrower leaves.
Where to plant
Collards grow in a wide range of soils in full sun, ideally at a pH of 6 to 6.5. Mature plants withstand frosts and light to moderate freezes, and cold weather sweetens the leaves. A long cold spell after a good growing period makes them bolt, so choose a bolt resistant variety for spring.
In Florida, the Gulf South, Texas, the desert and Southern California, plant from fall through winter and harvest through the cool months. In South Carolina, Clemson gives spring transplanting from February or March into June and fall transplanting from August to October; the Mid-South and Mid-Atlantic are similar. Across the North, the Midwest, the Mountain West and Alaska, plant in spring and again in midsummer for a fall crop that carries on after frost.
Choosing a variety
Most collards are bred to be slow to bolt. Clemson recommends the hybrids Blue Max, Flash, Top Bunch 2.0, Tiger and Champion, a bolt resistant, productive and hardy variety, and the heirlooms Georgia Southern, introduced in the 1880s, Morris Heading and Vates.
How to plant
- For spring, use transplants, as seed germinates slowly in cool spring soil. Start seed indoors six to eight weeks before your planting date.
- For fall, sow directly in late summer, a quarter to half an inch (6 to 12 mm) deep in moist soil; seed sown deeper than half an inch often fails.
- Keep the soil moist while seedlings establish, and thin at the three leaf stage.
- Space plants 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) apart in rows 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart; wider spacing gives bigger plants for leaf by leaf picking.
- Cover young plants with fabric row cover to keep out cabbage worms and harlequin bugs.
Watering and feeding
Water to keep moisture even, wetting the soil at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep, since light sprinklings give shallow roots. Water early in the day so leaves dry before night. Moisture matters most while seedlings establish and as plants mature. Mulch helps hold water and keep down weeds.
Collards need moderate fertilizer and plenty of nitrogen for good leaves. Work a fertilizer into the bed before planting according to a soil test, then side dress with nitrogen three to four weeks after planting and again three to four weeks later, keeping it 4 to 6 inches from the plants.
Pruning and care through the year
- Pick regularly from the bottom of the plant to keep new leaves coming from the top.
- Remove yellowing lower leaves and check under leaves for caterpillars and harlequin bugs.
- Rotate cabbage family crops to a new bed each year to reduce black rot and clubroot.
Harvesting
Collards are ready about 60 to 80 days after direct seeding. Either cut whole plants when half or fully grown, or, to extend the harvest, break off individual leaves from the bottom of the plant upward, taking only a few from each plant at a time. Plants can keep producing for months through the cool season.
Collards keep up to 2 weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge. Young seedlings can also be grown as microgreens, ready 10 to 15 days after sowing, using untreated seed.
Companion planting
Aromatic herbs and flowers near collards draw beneficial insects that help with cabbage family pests.
Good companions
- Beet A low, quick crop for the space between plants.
- Onion Narrow and low, so it fits between rows.
- Celery Likes the same rich, moist soil and cool season.
- Dill Its flowers feed small wasps that parasitize caterpillars and aphids.
- Nasturtium Flowers for pollinators; it can draw aphids away.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to collard greens.
- Strawberry Traditionally kept apart from cabbage family crops.
- Tomato A summer crop with different timing; traditional charts keep it apart.
Pests and diseases
Clemson lists caterpillars and harlequin bugs as the major insect problems, with aphids an occasional problem, mostly in fall.
Pests to watch for
- Cabbage worms Imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper and diamondback moth caterpillars chewing holes in the leaves.
- Stink bugs Harlequin bugs: shield shaped black and orange or red bugs that suck sap and leave pale blotches on leaves.
- Aphids Gray, waxy colonies under the leaves, mostly in fall.
Diseases to watch for
- Black rot Yellow, V shaped areas at the leaf edges with blackened veins; a common bacterial disease of collards.
- Downy mildew Yellow patches on top of the leaf with gray fuzz underneath in cool, wet weather.
- Leaf spot Alternaria leaf spot: dark spots with concentric rings on the leaves.
- Clubroot Stunted plants that wilt on warm days, with swollen, distorted roots.
Common questions
How do I harvest collards so they keep producing?
Break off a few of the lower leaves at a time, working up the plant, and leave the top growing. Plants keep producing for months in cool weather.
Do collards taste better after frost?
Yes. Collards withstand frosts and light freezes, and cold weather sweetens the leaves.
Why are my collards flowering?
Bolting. A long cold spell following good growth, or the arrival of warm spring weather, makes collards send up flower stalks. Choose a bolt resistant variety for spring plantings.
When should I plant collards in the South?
Late summer to fall for the main crop, and late winter to early spring for a spring crop. Clemson gives August to October for fall transplanting in South Carolina.
What are the orange and black bugs on my collards?
Harlequin bugs, members of the stink bug family with a reddish orange and black pattern. They suck sap and leave pale blotches. Handpick adults and crush their distinctive egg clusters, which look like tiny black and white barrels.
Can I grow collards in summer?
Collards handle more heat than most brassicas, but quality is best in cool weather, and Fusarium yellows can affect summer crops.
Sources we checked: Clemson HGIC 1307: Collards; Clemson HGIC 2203: Cabbage, Broccoli, and Other Cole Crop Insect Pests.
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