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How to grow Collard Greens

Updated October 2026

Collard greens are the classic Southern green and one of the toughest members of the cabbage family. They handle more heat than most brassicas, withstand frosts and light to moderate freezes, and taste sweeter after cold weather. Picked leaf by leaf from the bottom up, a few plants supply greens for months.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Collard Greens

Sow
Transplants in spring; direct sow in late summer for fall
Germination
About 1 week in warm soil; slow in cold spring soil
Harvest
About 60 to 80 days from direct seeding; leaves for months
Sun
Full sun
Soil
Most soils; pH 6 to 6.5
Spacing
About 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) apart in rows 18 to 36 inches apart
Height
About 16 to 32 inches (40 to 80 cm)
Water
Even moisture, soaking the soil at least 6 inches deep

Not to be confused with: Collards are the same species as cabbage and kale, a leafy, non heading form. Kale is similar but usually has curlier or narrower leaves.

Where to plant

Collards grow in a wide range of soils in full sun, ideally at a pH of 6 to 6.5. Mature plants withstand frosts and light to moderate freezes, and cold weather sweetens the leaves. A long cold spell after a good growing period makes them bolt, so choose a bolt resistant variety for spring.

In Florida, the Gulf South, Texas, the desert and Southern California, plant from fall through winter and harvest through the cool months. In South Carolina, Clemson gives spring transplanting from February or March into June and fall transplanting from August to October; the Mid-South and Mid-Atlantic are similar. Across the North, the Midwest, the Mountain West and Alaska, plant in spring and again in midsummer for a fall crop that carries on after frost.

Choosing a variety

Most collards are bred to be slow to bolt. Clemson recommends the hybrids Blue Max, Flash, Top Bunch 2.0, Tiger and Champion, a bolt resistant, productive and hardy variety, and the heirlooms Georgia Southern, introduced in the 1880s, Morris Heading and Vates.

How to plant

  1. For spring, use transplants, as seed germinates slowly in cool spring soil. Start seed indoors six to eight weeks before your planting date.
  2. For fall, sow directly in late summer, a quarter to half an inch (6 to 12 mm) deep in moist soil; seed sown deeper than half an inch often fails.
  3. Keep the soil moist while seedlings establish, and thin at the three leaf stage.
  4. Space plants 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) apart in rows 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart; wider spacing gives bigger plants for leaf by leaf picking.
  5. Cover young plants with fabric row cover to keep out cabbage worms and harlequin bugs.

Watering and feeding

Water to keep moisture even, wetting the soil at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep, since light sprinklings give shallow roots. Water early in the day so leaves dry before night. Moisture matters most while seedlings establish and as plants mature. Mulch helps hold water and keep down weeds.

Collards need moderate fertilizer and plenty of nitrogen for good leaves. Work a fertilizer into the bed before planting according to a soil test, then side dress with nitrogen three to four weeks after planting and again three to four weeks later, keeping it 4 to 6 inches from the plants.

Pruning and care through the year

  • Pick regularly from the bottom of the plant to keep new leaves coming from the top.
  • Remove yellowing lower leaves and check under leaves for caterpillars and harlequin bugs.
  • Rotate cabbage family crops to a new bed each year to reduce black rot and clubroot.

Harvesting

Collards are ready about 60 to 80 days after direct seeding. Either cut whole plants when half or fully grown, or, to extend the harvest, break off individual leaves from the bottom of the plant upward, taking only a few from each plant at a time. Plants can keep producing for months through the cool season.

Collards keep up to 2 weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge. Young seedlings can also be grown as microgreens, ready 10 to 15 days after sowing, using untreated seed.

Common questions

How do I harvest collards so they keep producing?

Break off a few of the lower leaves at a time, working up the plant, and leave the top growing. Plants keep producing for months in cool weather.

Do collards taste better after frost?

Yes. Collards withstand frosts and light freezes, and cold weather sweetens the leaves.

Why are my collards flowering?

Bolting. A long cold spell following good growth, or the arrival of warm spring weather, makes collards send up flower stalks. Choose a bolt resistant variety for spring plantings.

When should I plant collards in the South?

Late summer to fall for the main crop, and late winter to early spring for a spring crop. Clemson gives August to October for fall transplanting in South Carolina.

What are the orange and black bugs on my collards?

Harlequin bugs, members of the stink bug family with a reddish orange and black pattern. They suck sap and leave pale blotches. Handpick adults and crush their distinctive egg clusters, which look like tiny black and white barrels.

Can I grow collards in summer?

Collards handle more heat than most brassicas, but quality is best in cool weather, and Fusarium yellows can affect summer crops.

Sources we checked: Clemson HGIC 1307: Collards; Clemson HGIC 2203: Cabbage, Broccoli, and Other Cole Crop Insect Pests.

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