How to grow Elderberry
Updated October 2026
American elderberry is a fast growing native shrub with broad, flat clusters of fragrant white flowers in early summer and drooping bunches of purple black berries in late summer. The berries are cooked into jams, pies, syrups and wine, and the flowers are used fresh. It thrives in moist soil, spreads by suckers, and feeds birds, bees and other wildlife. Raw berries, leaves and stems are toxic, so always cook the fruit.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Elderberry
Not to be confused with: Do not confuse elderberry with water hemlock or pokeweed, which are highly poisonous. American elderberry has opposite, compound leaves with 5 to 11 toothed leaflets, flat topped flower clusters and woody, multi stemmed growth with white pith.
Where to plant
American elderberry grows wild along streams, marshes and moist woods. It tolerates wet to dry soils but does best in rich, moist, slightly acid soil in sun to part shade, with full sun giving the most fruit. It spreads by root suckers and has a loose, informal habit, so plant it at the back of the garden, as a hedge or along a wet edge. Branches can break in high winds and under heavy snow or ice.
It grows across most of the mainland US: plant in late winter in Florida, the Gulf South and Texas, in late winter, spring or fall in the Mid-South, Mid-Atlantic, Pacific Northwest and Southern Plains, and in spring or fall further north. Most varieties need more winter chill than South Florida gets. In the Desert Southwest, the native desert (blue) elderberry is the better choice. Do not plant elderberry in Hawaii, where it has escaped into native forest.
Choosing a variety
Named varieties of American elderberry crop more heavily and evenly than wild plants. Bob Gordon is a heavy bearing variety. Elderberries set more fruit with cross pollination, so plant at least two different varieties near each other.
How to plant
- Plant dormant bare root or potted plants at the depth they grew, or slightly deeper.
- Space plants about 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 m) apart, or closer for a hedgerow.
- Water well and mulch to keep the shallow roots moist and weeds down.
Watering and feeding
Elderberries have shallow roots and like steady moisture. Water during dry spells, especially in the first two years and while fruit is ripening, and keep a mulch over the root zone.
Feed lightly in spring with compost or a balanced fertilizer.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune in late winter: remove dead, broken and weak canes and some of the oldest canes, so young, vigorous canes keep coming.
- Remove root suckers that stray, or let them fill in for a hedgerow.
- NC State notes native bees nest in dead, hollow stems: cut old stems back to 12 to 24 inches and leave them standing.
- Net bushes as berries ripen if birds take too many.
Harvesting
Pick whole clusters when all the berries have turned dark purple black, from late summer into fall. Strip the berries from the stems and discard the stems and any green berries.
NC State warns that unripe berries are much more toxic than ripe ones, and the fruit, leaves, stems and roots contain cyanide forming compounds that cooking helps break down. Always cook the berries before eating, in jams, pies, syrups and pancakes. Pick flower heads in early summer for fritters and cordial; leave plenty if you want berries.
Propagation and saving seed
Elderberries are easy to propagate from hardwood cuttings taken in late winter, from softwood cuttings in early summer, or by digging rooted suckers.
Companion planting
Elderberry fits naturally at the edge of an orchard, a wet corner or a wildlife hedge.
Good companions
- Fruit trees Its flowers bring pollinators and beneficial insects to the orchard edge.
Pests and diseases
NC State lists canker, powdery mildew, leaf spot, borers, spider mites and aphids as occasional problems.
Pests to watch for
- Fruit tree borers Wilting shoots and canes with holes and frass from boring larvae; cut out affected canes.
- Aphids Clusters on new shoots and flower stems.
- Spider mites Stippled, dusty leaves in hot, dry weather.
- Birds Ripe berries stripped from clusters.
Diseases to watch for
- Powdery mildew White powdery coating on leaves.
- Leaf spot Brown spots on leaves in wet weather.
- Bacterial canker Cankers and dieback on canes; prune out affected wood.
Common questions
Are raw elderberries poisonous?
Yes, they can be. NC State notes elderberry fruit, leaves, stems and roots contain cyanide forming compounds, unripe berries are much more toxic than ripe ones, and cooking helps inactivate them. Eat only ripe berries, cooked, and discard stems and leaves.
Do I need two elderberry plants?
For the best crops, yes. Elderberries set more fruit when two different varieties grow near each other.
When are elderberries ripe?
From late summer into fall, when the whole cluster has turned dark purple black and the clusters droop. Pick the whole cluster and strip the berries.
Does elderberry spread?
Yes. It spreads by root suckers and forms thickets if the suckers are not removed, so give it space or pull suckers each year.
Can I grow elderberry in Hawaii?
No. Elderberry has escaped gardens there and forms thickets in native forest, so do not plant it.
How do I prune elderberry?
In late winter, remove dead, broken and weak canes and some of the oldest ones each year, so the bush keeps producing young, vigorous canes.
Sources we checked: NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Sambucus canadensis.
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