How to grow Eggplant
Updated October 2026
Eggplant is a true heat lover in the tomato family, growing best at 70 to 85°F (21 to 29°C) and crawling along in cool weather. Transplants set out once the soil has warmed give glossy purple Italian fruit, slender Asian types or white, green and striped specialty varieties all summer. In Florida and the Deep South, it crops through much of the warm season.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Eggplant
Where to plant
Eggplant needs full sun, warm soil and fertile, well drained ground at a pH of about 6 to 6.5. It has a long growing season and grows slowly in cool spells, so plant only after the last frost once the soil has thoroughly warmed.
UF/IFAS gives planting times of mid March to July in North Florida, January to February and August to September in Central Florida, and August to February in South Florida. In the Gulf South, Texas and the desert, set out transplants in early spring and again in July or August for fall. In California, plant from March to July. Across the North, plant in late May or June, using black plastic mulch and row covers to warm the soil; in short seasons, choose early or small fruited varieties.
Choosing a variety
Italian types have glossy, purple black, oval fruit 6 to 9 inches long, such as Black Beauty, Black Magic, Classic, Dusky, Epic, Night Shadow and Santana. Asian types are slender, thinner skinned and more delicate, such as Ichiban, plus Calliope and Kermit. Specialty eggplants include white Casper and Ghostbuster and the mini Gretel and Hansel.
How to plant
- Start seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before planting out, in warm conditions, or buy transplants.
- Choose stocky transplants without flowers; avoid tall, spindly ones, and those already blooming, which establish slowly and yield less.
- Work a fertilizer into the bed before planting according to a soil test.
- Plant 2 to 2.5 feet (60 to 75 cm) apart in rows 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm) apart, and water in well.
- Stake heavy plants, which can topple under a load of fruit.
Watering and feeding
Keep moisture uniform, wetting the soil at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep, especially during fruit set and development. Mulch to hold moisture and keep down weeds. UF/IFAS notes bitter fruit is caused by high temperatures or drought.
Eggplant needs moderate fertilizer. Side dress with nitrogen three to four weeks after planting and again three to four weeks later, keeping it 4 to 6 inches from the plants.
Pruning and care through the year
- Stake plants as the fruit load grows.
- Cover young plants with row cover where flea beetles are a problem, removing it when the plants flower.
- Rotate eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and potatoes to new beds each year to reduce wilts, blights and nematodes.
Harvesting
Pick fruit any time after it reaches a usable size, before the flesh gets tough and the seeds harden. Italian eggplants should be large, shiny and evenly colored; press the side with a thumbnail, and if a dent remains, it is ready. Asian types can be picked when the size of a finger or a hot dog. Harvest at least once a week.
Cut the tough stem with a sharp knife or pruners. Eggplant keeps about a week in the fridge, though it stores best at 45 to 50°F (7 to 10°C).
Growing in pots
Compact and Asian varieties grow well in a pot at least 16 inches (40 cm) wide, one plant per pot, in full sun. Water often in hot weather and stake the plant.
Companion planting
Eggplant suits a warm, sunny summer bed with its relatives and flowers for pollinators.
Good companions
- Beans Bush beans share the bed and add nitrogen.
- Marigold Bright flowers that draw beneficial insects.
- Thyme A low herb for the bed edge that flowers for bees.
- Bell pepper Same season and care, though they share pests and rotate together.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to eggplant.
- Fennel Fennel competes with and is thought to inhibit many vegetables.
Pests and diseases
Clemson lists flea beetles, Colorado potato beetles, aphids, whiteflies, hornworms and mites as the major pests.
Pests to watch for
- Flea beetles Many tiny holes in leaves, worst on young plants.
- Colorado potato beetle Yellow and black striped beetles and plump reddish larvae stripping leaves.
- Spider mites Stippled, bronzed leaves and webbing in hot, dry weather.
- Whitefly Tiny white insects under leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Phomopsis blight Sunken, tan to brown spots with dark specks on fruit, and spots on leaves and stems in warm, wet weather.
- Verticillium wilt Yellowing and wilting of lower leaves, often on one side, with brown streaks inside the stem.
- Root-knot nematodes Stunted plants with knotted, swollen roots in sandy soils.
Common questions
Why are my eggplants bitter?
High temperatures or drought cause bitterness, and so does fruit left on the plant too long. Keep watering even and pick fruit while it is still shiny.
How do I know when an eggplant is ripe?
It is large, glossy and evenly colored, and a thumbnail pressed into the side leaves a dent. Dull skin and hard seeds mean it is overmature.
Why is my eggplant not setting fruit?
Cool weather slows eggplant badly, and very hot spells or dry soil at flowering also reduce fruit set. Plant in warm soil and keep moisture steady.
What is making tiny holes in my eggplant leaves?
Flea beetles. Young plants are most at risk; cover them with row cover until they flower and keep them growing strongly.
When should I plant eggplant in Florida?
UF/IFAS gives mid March to July in North Florida, January to February and August to September in Central Florida, and August to February in South Florida.
Should I plant eggplant transplants that are already flowering?
It is better not to. Clemson notes blossoms on transplants slow their growth after planting and can lower yields.
Sources we checked: Clemson HGIC 1310: Eggplant; UF/IFAS EDIS VH021: Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide.
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