How to grow Okra
Updated October 2026
Okra is a Southern summer staple, a heat-loving relative of hibiscus with handsome flowers and tender pods for gumbo, frying and pickling. It is easy where summers are long and hot, crops from about 50 to 70 days after sowing, and needs picking every day or two once it starts.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Okra
Not to be confused with: Okra is in the hibiscus family, and its flowers look much like those of roselle and other hibiscus.
Where to plant
Okra needs full sun and warm soil, growing best when soil stays above about 65°F. It does well in almost any well-drained soil, ideally fertile sandy loam with a pH of 6 to 7, but does not tolerate wet ground. It is very heat tolerant and thrives in hot, humid Southern summers.
Plants usually grow 3 to 6 feet tall with a 2 to 4-foot spread, so place them where they will not shade shorter crops.
- Florida: plant once nights are in the mid-50s. UF/IFAS lists late March to July in North Florida, February to August in Central Florida, and January to March and August to October in South Florida, where okra grows nearly year-round.
- The Gulf South, Texas, the Desert Southwest, the Mid-South and the Southern Plains: sow from late spring through midsummer; a second sowing in early summer extends the harvest.
- The Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, Northeast, Mountain West and Northern Plains: sow 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost, once the soil is warm, or start seed indoors 4 to 5 weeks earlier. Choose compact, early varieties such as 'Annie Oakley II'.
- The Pacific Northwest and Alaska: summers are usually too cool for good crops.
Choosing a variety
UF/IFAS suggests 'Clemson Spineless', 'Emerald', 'Annie Oakley II', 'Cajun Delight' and 'North and South' for Florida. 'Annie Oakley II' is a compact hybrid that Utah State notes does well in cooler, short seasons. Red-podded types such as 'Burgundy' are also ornamental.
How to plant
- Soak seed in water for 6 hours or overnight before sowing to improve germination.
- Sow about 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart once the soil is warm, in rows about 3 feet apart.
- Thin to 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on variety, once seedlings have their first true leaves.
- In short-season areas, start seed indoors 4 to 5 weeks before planting out, and use black plastic mulch to warm the soil.
Watering and feeding
Okra tolerates dry spells, but regular watering gives much better yields. Utah State suggests 1.5 to 2 inches every 7 to 10 days. Water in the morning so leaves dry by night; drip or soaker hoses work well.
Work fertilizer or compost into the bed before planting according to a soil test, then side-dress with a little nitrogen once pods start forming and again four weeks later. Too much nitrogen early gives leaves instead of pods.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep weeds down while plants are young; the canopy shades out weeds later. Cultivate shallowly.
- Okra is highly susceptible to root-knot nematodes, so rotate it and avoid sandy beds where nematodes were a problem.
- When plants grow too tall to pick, many Florida gardeners simply sow a new row and pull the old one.
- The leaves and pods have fine hairs that irritate some people's skin; wear gloves and long sleeves when picking.
Harvesting
Pods form within a few days of flowering. Pick them while young and tender, about 2 to 4 inches long, every one or two days; older pods quickly turn tough and stringy. Cut the stem with a knife or snap the pod downward, taking care not to break the brittle branches.
Keep picking: plants produce until frost as long as pods are not left to mature.
Companion planting
Okra is tall and loves heat, so it suits the north side of a summer bed.
Good companions
- Basil A heat-loving herb for the same summer bed, and its flowers bring in pollinators.
- Bell pepper Shares okra's love of heat; plant peppers on the sunny side.
Pests and diseases
Root-knot nematodes are okra's biggest problem in sandy Southern soils.
Pests to watch for
- Root-knot nematodes Stunted plants with galls and knots on the roots.
- Aphids Clusters under leaves with sticky honeydew.
- Whitefly Tiny white insects under leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Fusarium wilt Yellowing, wilting plants with brown streaks inside the stem.
- Root rot Stunted, yellow plants with rotting roots, or seedlings that collapse in cold, wet soil.
- Verticillium wilt
Common questions
When should I plant okra?
Once the soil is warm, at least 65 to 75°F, usually 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost. In Florida, plant when nights are in the mid-50s; South Florida can grow okra nearly year-round.
How big should okra pods be when I pick them?
Small: about 2 to 4 inches long, usually a few days after the flower falls. Bigger pods turn tough and stringy.
Why do my okra seeds not come up?
Cold soil is the usual reason. Wait until the soil is warm and soak the seed for 6 hours or overnight before sowing.
Why are my okra plants stunted with knobby roots?
That is root-knot nematode damage. Okra is highly susceptible; rotate it to a new spot and add organic matter.
Can I grow okra in the North?
Yes, with a compact, early variety such as 'Annie Oakley II', transplants started indoors, and black plastic mulch to warm the soil.
Why does okra make my hands itch?
The leaves and pods have fine hairs that irritate some people. Wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or grow spineless varieties.
Sources we checked: UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: Okra; UF/IFAS EDIS: Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide (VH021); Utah State University Extension: Okra in the Garden.
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